Can I condition the dry cracks out?

Feed the hide gently with a decent microcrystalline wax rather than heavy oils. Oils darken the surface unevenly and weaken the historic seams. Those cracks form part of the physical history and you can't reverse them. A light wax simply stops the edges drying further.

My husband wants to put this heavy piece in our conservatory but I worry the direct sunlight might cause some damage over the summer months?

Direct sunlight acts as a powerful bleaching agent on dyed animal skins. Months of UV exposure will fade the rich russet tones into a flat grey. The heat also bakes the remaining natural moisture out of the hide. Keep it in a shaded room away from the radiators. If it must sit near glass, use UV-filtering films on the windows and draw the blinds during the brightest part of the day.

Why does it sit so low?

Late nineteenth-century seating reflects a shift in how people rested. Earlier upright postures gave way to lounging, so makers dropped the seat rail closer to the floor and angled the backrest. Deep sprung bases also need room for the metal coils to compress. A lower front edge stops the sitter's knees being pushed up uncomfortably when they sink into the upholstery.

The castors have cut deep grooves into our wooden floors so is there a safe way to take them off without ruining the legs?

Removing original brass fittings alters the intended stance of the frame. The rear legs usually lack castors and splay backwards. Taking the front wheels off drops the front edge by an inch, tipping the occupant forward. Leave the hardware in place and tackle the floor issue instead. Castor cups spread the point load over a wider area. Thick felt pads glued under wooden cups allow the piece to slide without scoring the pine boards.

Home > Sofas > Leather Sofas > Page 4

Antique Leather Sofas

← Page 4 of 5 →

Deep buttoned hides stretched over sprung timber frames created substantial seating designed to absorb the smoke and heavy use of nineteenth-century club rooms and libraries.