How do I secure a heavy oak corner cabinet to the wall?

Wall-hanging models require robust fixing screws anchored directly into the masonry or timber studs behind the plaster. Because solid oak is remarkably heavy, relying solely on plasterboard anchors risks pulling the unit from the wall. Floor-standing and two-part models typically require only a simple discreet wall tether near the top to prevent accidental tipping, as their primary weight rests securely on the floor.

What is the difference between a hanging and a standing corner cabinet?

Hanging corner cabinets mount directly to the wall at eye level or above, leaving the floor entirely clear underneath. They suit smaller rooms or spaces where floor area is at a premium. Standing corner cabinets rest on the floor, often extending from the baseboards to shoulder height or higher. These larger units offer significantly more interior volume and frequently feature separate upper and lower compartments.

How do I date an antique oak corner cabinet?

Dating relies on examining construction techniques, hardware, and stylistic revival markers. Eighteenth-century and Georgian pieces often display hand-cut dovetails, pegged joints, and simple raised oak panels with authentic patination. Cabinets from the Victorian, Edwardian, and 1930s periods frequently incorporate machine-sawn timber, different hinge types, or revival motifs such as Jacobean twist turnings and Chippendale fretwork.

Can these cabinets fit modern rooms easily?

Corner cabinets utilise dead angles in a room that standard rectangular furniture cannot occupy efficiently. Their triangular footprints allow them to tuck neatly beside doorways or between windows without impeding walkways. Glass-fronted versions work well in dining areas for storing tableware, while solid-panelled doors provide concealed storage in hallways or sitting rooms.