Mid Century Necklace
A mid century necklace brings together the clean lines of 1950s and 1960s design and the rich textures of pearls, diamonds, and sterling silver.
Mid Century Necklace
A mid century necklace selection spans a fascinating range of items created primarily during the 1950s and 1960s, encompassing both minimalist Scandinavian silver designs and elaborate multi-strand pearl pieces. Buyers searching for this phrase encounter everything from sleek modernist pendants to ornate gemstone-clasped pearl chokers and complete jewellery suites.
The pearls dominate the offerings, often appearing as graduated multi-strand necklaces secured by intricate clasps set with diamonds, sapphires, rubies, or amethysts. Alongside these pearl strands sit striking gold and silver pendants featuring hardstones such as malachite, lapis lazuli, turquoise, and aquamarine.
While the majority of items firmly date to the mid-20th century, occasional Victorian or Edwardian pieces also emerge alongside later works, reflecting the enduring influence of earlier styles on mid-century makers. Paintings depicting portraits of ladies wearing period necklaces also appear among the varied objects.
How they were made
The construction of these pieces relies heavily on precious metals like sterling silver, 9ct gold, 14ct gold, and 18ct white or yellow gold, shaped into smooth links, bezels, and clasps. Silver smiths across Denmark, Germany, Italy, and Finland utilised clean geometric forms and organic motifs.
Pearl stringing involved carefully knotting silk threads between cultured, freshwater, or seed pearls, often pairing multiple strands with decorative gem-set clasps. Gemstones including diamonds, sapphires, emeralds, citrines, and aquamarines were precision-cut and securely mounted in prong or cluster settings.
What varies in quality
Quality in these necklaces often rests upon the origin and execution of the design, with works from renowned Scandinavian silversmiths or Italian design houses commanding particular attention for their sculptural purity. The selection of materials also dictates the standard, distinguishing pieces set with fine diamonds and matched natural gemstones from simpler commercial productions.
The integration of the clasp provides another measure of distinction, as top-tier examples treat the clasp as a central decorative feature inset with sapphires, diamonds, or emeralds rather than a mere functional fastener. The uniformity, lustre, and professional stringing of multi-strand pearl configurations further separate standard items from superior specimens.
Kenneth Cozens·Paris House London·Georg Jensen·G. Hoppe·Christian Dior·Kria Gioielli·Grosse
The Mid Century Necklace Glossary
- Graduated
- A pearl or bead necklace arranged so that the largest elements sit at the centre front and gradually decrease in size toward the clasp.
- Clasp
- The mechanical fastener at the back of a necklace, which during the mid-century period was frequently elevated into a jewelled focal point featuring diamonds and precious stones.
- Tubogas
- A flexible, ribbon-like gold band formed from tightly wound strips of metal, popular in Italian jewellery design.
- Parure
- A matched set of jewellery, typically comprising a necklace, earrings, and a brooch designed to be worn together.
- Cultured pearl
- An oyster-produced pearl grown through human intervention by the insertion of a bead nucleus, widely utilised in 1950s and 1960s string designs.
Mid Century Necklace: Frequently Asked Questions
What defines a mid century necklace?
These necklaces are characterised by the distinct design aesthetics of the 1950s and 1960s, ranging from minimalist modernist silver to luxurious multi-strand cultured pearls.
They reflect an era when jewellers experimented with asymmetric forms, abstract motifs, and clever clasp designs that often doubled as wearable gemstone brooches.
How were pearl necklaces styled?
During the mid-century decades, pearl necklaces were frequently worn as double or triple strands close to the collarbone, highlighting the craftsmanship of the front clasp.
Craftsmen often designed these clasps with clusters of diamonds, rubies, or sapphires so the wearer could deliberately rotate the clasp to the front.
Are these pieces suitable for daily wear?
Many of these necklaces are robust enough for regular use, particularly solid gold and silver link chains or securely mounted stone pendants.
Pearl strands require more careful handling and periodic re-stringing to maintain the integrity of the silk thread between the pearls.
How do I identify Scandinavian modern pieces?
Scandinavian modern pieces usually feature clean, unembellished sterling silver forms inspired by organic shapes, with makers such as Georg Jensen leading the aesthetic.
These designs avoid heavy gemstone ornamentation in favour of sculptural metalwork and smooth cabochon stones.