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Edwardian Ruby Gold Brooch
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Edwardian Ruby Gold Brooch

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An edwardian ruby gold brooch brings together rich crimson stones and warm yellow or rose metal in delicate floral, crescent, and bar forms.

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Sellingantiques  ·  Guide 1538752026/2027 edition

Edwardian Ruby Gold Brooch

An edwardian ruby gold brooch brings together rich crimson stones and warm yellow or rose metal in delicate floral, crescent, and bar forms.

Introduction

Edwardian Ruby Gold Brooch

An edwardian ruby gold brooch represents an era of refined lapidary work, frequently pairing deep red rubies with sparkling diamonds and pearls. When searching for an edwardian ruby gold brooch, buyers encounter pieces fashioned in 9ct, 15ct, and 18ct gold, often supplemented by silver settings on the face to enhance stone brilliance.

The forms span graceful crescents, floral clusters, and versatile pendant brooches that transition easily from lapel pin to neck chain. While core examples date firmly from the Edwardian period and the early twentieth century, related designs stretch back into the Victorian era and forward into the Art Deco years.

How they were made

Materials and construction methods

Goldsmiths utilised varying purities of gold, notably 9ct, 15ct, and 18ct yellow or rose gold, alongside platinum in later examples, to fabricate secure mounts for gemstones. Stones were set by hand, often incorporating claw settings or flush settings that secured rubies alongside diamonds and pearls.

Many jewels combine gold backs with silver frontages, a traditional technique that allowed artisans to use white metal for brighter stone reflections whilst maintaining the warmth and strength of gold underneath.

From the Sellingantiques archive

The listings span multiple periods from the late nineteenth century through to the Art Deco era, predominantly featuring 9ct, 15ct, and 18ct gold.

What sets them apart

Judging quality and execution

The distinction between standard examples and superior pieces rests on the precision of the metalwork and the selection of the stones. Finer brooches display balanced proportions in complex motifs like crescents or floral sprays, with well-matched rubies and cleanly cut diamonds.

Artisanal skill shows in the subtlety of pierced gallery work and the secure integration of convertible elements, allowing a brooch to function equally as a pendant without clumsy hinges or heavy catches.

Terms antiques dealers use

The Edwardian Ruby Gold Brooch Glossary

Crescent brooch
A curved, moon-shaped pin design popular during the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries. These pieces typically graduate stone sizes from the centre outwards.
Bar brooch
A slender horizontal metal rod decorated with gemstones or central motifs. This format was widely used for secure fastening to heavier fabrics.
Pendant brooch
A dual-purpose jewel fitted with a hidden loop or detachable bail. This allows the piece to be worn either pinned to clothing or suspended from a chain.
Platinum
A dense, durable white metal utilised in finer jewellery settings from the Edwardian era onward. It permitted very delicate claw work while holding small diamonds securely.
Questions people ask

Edwardian Ruby Gold Brooch: Frequently Asked Questions

How do I wear an edwardian ruby gold brooch safely?

Pin the brooch to sturdy fabrics such as wool coat lapels, thick knits, or structured jacket collars to support the weight of the gold and gemstones.

Ensure the pin mechanism engages properly with its safety clasp or rolling C-catch before wearing it out.

Can I convert my brooch into a pendant?

Many Edwardian designs were constructed as convertible pieces featuring a fold-down loop or a detachable fitting on the reverse.

Check the back of the piece for a small hinged ring that allows a chain to pass through without altering the original mount.

How do I clean an antique gold and ruby brooch?

Wipe the gold surfaces and stones gently with a soft, damp microfibre cloth to remove surface dust and body oils.

Avoid harsh chemical dips or ultrasonic cleaners, especially if the piece contains pearls or closed-back gemstone settings.

What is the difference between Victorian and Edwardian brooches?

Victorian pieces often display heavier gold weights, darker gems, and robust sentimental motifs like insects, monkeys, or multi-gem clusters.

Edwardian designs shifted toward lighter, airier compositions involving platinum-topped gold, openwork frames, and delicate diamond and ruby pairings.

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