Sub Dial Wrist Watch
A sub dial wrist watch brings mechanical precision and distinct subsidiary dials to the wrist, offering a practical timepiece suited for daily wear.
Sub Dial Wrist Watch
Forms vary from classic round cases to tank and curvex shapes, reflecting the styles of art deco and mid-century modern periods. Stainless steel, chrome, gold plate, and nine-carat gold cases house these intricate dials.
Materials and construction
Cases utilise metals such as stainless steel, chrome, silver, and nine-carat gold, paired with glass or acrylic crystals to protect the dial. Leather straps secure the watch to the wrist, complementing the metal case construction.
Movements rely on mechanical winding, including manual wind calibres and bumper automatic mechanisms. Skilled watchmakers assembled these internal components to drive both the primary hands and the subsidiary dial mechanisms.
Listings feature stainless steel, gold plate, and nine-carat gold cases housing mechanical movements from the nineteen-thirties to the nineteen-sixties.
Quality differences in these watches
The distinction between tiers rests in the refinement of the movement calibre, such as specialised Omega or Longines movements, alongside the preciousness of the case material like solid nine-carat gold versus gold-fill or chrome.
Original dial condition and the precision of the restoration work also dictate the standing of the piece. Fully restored mechanisms and untouched vintage stock command greater attention from discerning collectors.
Omega·Longines·Smiths·Bulova·Zenith
The Sub Dial Wrist Watch Glossary
- Sub dial
- A secondary miniature dial on the watch face used for tracking seconds or auxiliary timing. It sits recessed or marked within the main dial.
- Calibre
- The specific internal mechanical movement manufactured for a watch. Different calibres denote various standards of engineering and origin.
- Manual wind
- A mechanical watch movement wound by hand via the crown rather than automatically by wrist motion. It requires regular manual winding to maintain operation.
- Tank watch
- A rectangular wristwatch style with vertical case sides that extend into the lugs. This geometric form became popular during the art deco era.
- Bumper automatic
- An early self-winding mechanical movement where the rotor swings back and forth against springs rather than rotating fully. This movement style provides a distinct physical sensation on the wrist.
Sub Dial Wrist Watch: Frequently Asked Questions
How do I wind a manual watch?
Turn the crown gently clockwise between your thumb and forefinger until you feel resistance. Stop winding immediately once you feel this tension to avoid damaging the internal spring.
Wind the watch around the same time each day to maintain steady timekeeping. Avoid over-winding, as forcing the crown past the stopping point can snap the mainspring.
Are these watches waterproof?
Most vintage watches lack modern waterproof seals and gaskets. Even pieces described as hermetic or military issue should be kept away from water.
Keep the watch dry during daily wear, removing it before swimming or bathing. Moisture inside the case can damage the dial and rust the delicate mechanical movement.
How do I care for a leather strap?
Keep the leather strap dry and clean by wiping it periodically with a soft cloth. Avoid exposing the leather to direct sunlight and excessive heat.
Remove the watch before strenuous physical activity to prevent sweat from degrading the material. Replacing a worn strap preserves the overall wearability of the timepiece.