Edwardian Art Deco Brooch
These pieces span the Edwardian and Art Deco periods, bringing together platinum, gold, and diamonds in wearable designs.
Edwardian Art Deco Brooch
An edwardian art deco brooch combines the delicate motifs of the early twentieth century with the geometric geometry that defined the interwar years. You will encounter bar brooches, floral spray designs, and convertible pendant pieces that reflect the transition from Edwardian grace into Art Deco boldness.
The selections span the nineteen twenties, nineteen thirties, and nineteen forties, alongside pieces bridging the Edwardian era. Forms range from linear diamond line brooches to figural butterfly and terrier dog motifs.
Platinum and white gold dominate the metalwork, frequently paired with diamonds, sapphires, rubies, and pearls. These jewels were pinned to lapels, dresses, and hats, serving as versatile accessories of their time.
How they were made
Makers utilised platinum and eighteen carat white gold as the primary settings for diamonds, allowing for fine, strong metalwork that held stones securely without heavy bezels. Yellow gold and silver gilt also appear, providing warmer tones for specific floral and figural compositions.
Lapidaries cut diamonds in old cuts to catch the candlelight, setting them alongside calibre-cut onyx, rubies, sapphires, and aquamarines. Enamel and butterfly wings add colour and texture to pictorial subjects like dragonflies and butterflies.
A terrier dog makes a steadfast companion, even when cast in gold as a tiny lapel dweller.
What varies in quality
The overall impact relies heavily on the scale and carat weight of the central diamonds, with larger stone configurations marking the upper end of the selection. The complexity of the mounting, whether an intricate floral spray or a large geometric plaque, dictates the craftsmanship involved.
The integration of contrasting materials, such as combining onyx borders with platinum diamond work or incorporating pink pearls and aquamarines, separates standard bar pins from substantial statement brooches.
The Edwardian Art Deco Brooch Glossary
- Bar brooch
- A slender horizontal pin that displays stones along a central axis. These often feature diamonds or coloured gems set in platinum or gold.
- Old cut
- A diamond cutting style prevalent in the Edwardian and Art Deco periods featuring a high crown and small table. This cut creates a softer, deeper scintillation under artificial light.
- Platinum
- A dense, strong white metal prized in jewellery manufacture for its ability to hold delicate gemstone settings securely. It became the favoured metal for fine diamond mounting during the nineteen twenties.
- Silver gilt
- Silver that has been coated with a thin layer of gold. This technique provides the appearance of solid gold while utilising silver as a base metal.
- Line brooch
- A straight, narrow piece set in a continuous line of gemstones. These geometric designs typify the minimalist aesthetic of the Art Deco era.
Edwardian Art Deco Brooch: Frequently Asked Questions
How do I wear a brooch?
These pieces pin securely to coat lapels, heavy wool sweaters, or the neckline of a dress. Their substantial clasps hold them firmly in place through daily wear.
For a modern look, secure a bar brooch to a silk scarf or fasten a large geometric plaque at the shoulder of a tailored blazer.
Can a brooch convert to a pendant?
Certain designs feature integrated loops or bails that allow the piece to transition from a lapel pin to a necklace pendant. This dual functionality was popular during the interwar years.
Checking the reverse of the piece reveals whether a hidden loop exists for hanging on a chain.
What gemstones appear in these designs?
Diamonds are the most frequent stone, accompanied by sapphires, rubies, aquamarines, onyx, and pearls. Coloured stones provide contrast against white platinum and diamond fields.
Faux diamonds and enamel also appear in specific decorative pieces, alongside natural materials like butterfly wings.