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Collectable Watches

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These collectable watches span pocket and wrist formats from the Georgian era through the mid-twentieth century, offering mechanical interest and historical utility.

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Sellingantiques  ·  Guide 2428582026/2027 edition

Collectable Watches

These collectable watches span pocket and wrist formats from the Georgian era through the mid-twentieth century, offering mechanical interest and historical utility.

Introduction

Collectable Watches

When you search for collectable watches, you encounter a diverse range of timepieces spanning from Georgian verge pocket watches to mid-century automatic wristwatches. Pocket watches dominate the earlier periods, featuring silver cases, intricate hunter covers, and specialised railway or military issues from the nineteenth and early twentieth centuries.

As the selection moves into the nineteen-forties and nineteen-fifties, wristwatches take precedence alongside military chronographs and aviation instruments. Pieces originate from notable makers and specific sectors, including railway companies, military branches, and civilian manufacturers, reflecting the varied technological demands of their respective decades.

How they were made

Materials and construction methods

The casings utilise metals such as sterling silver, stainless steel, gun metal, and gold, paired with glass crystals and enamel dials. Leather straps appear on wrist models, while pocket pieces frequently include steel chains and pendant accessories.

Movements rely on mechanical ingenuity, encompassing manual wind calibres, automatic bumper mechanisms, chronograph complications, and calendar displays. Dial decoration involves painted scenes, subsidiary seconds, and luminous markers suited to military and civilian use.

The market

Collectable Watches Retail Price Guide 2026

Entry-levelUnder £200
Typical prices£200 – £1,000
Premium examplesOver £1,000

Typical asking prices for collectable watches among the pieces listed under this phrase on Sellingantiques today, from the lower quarter to the upper quarter. They describe what is for sale here now, not the wider market.

From the Sellingantiques archive

The inventory encompasses periods from the eighteenth century to nineteen-sixty, using materials including gold, silver, stainless steel, and enamel.

What sets them apart

Distinguishing quality and character

Quality rests in the preservation of original components, the legibility and artistry of the dial, and the mechanical integrity of the movement. Pieces retaining untouched cases and specific military or railway provenance display greater historical depth.

The precision of the casework, whether an engraved silver hunter or a robust stainless steel pilot watch, separates standard production items from specialised chronographs and high-grade branded timepieces.

Notable makers of collectable watches

Omega·Smiths De Luxe·Cyma·Waltham·Vertex·Consul·Zenith·Marvin·Ebel·Longines

Terms antiques dealers use

The Collectable Watches Glossary

Hunter pocket watch
A pocket watch featuring a spring-loaded metal cover that protects the glass dial from damage. This design required a push-button mechanism on the crown to open.
Chronograph
A watch equipped with a display function that measures elapsed time independently of the timekeeping hands. Such mechanisms often include secondary dials for tracking minutes or hours.
Verge escapement
An early mechanical escapement type utilising a vertical rod with pallets that interact with a crown wheel. This arrangement regulated the gear train in older pocket watches.
Bumper automatic
An early self-winding movement where the rotor swings back and forth within an arc rather than rotating fully. Springs cushion the rotor at each end of its travel.
Questions people ask

Collectable Watches: Frequently Asked Questions

How do I wind a vintage pocket watch?

Most pocket watches wind via the crown at the top, which you turn clockwise until you feel resistance. Avoid overwinding, as this can strain the internal spring mechanism.

For key-wound models from earlier periods, a separate small key fits onto a square arbor on the dial or back plate to tension the movement.

Were military watches worn by civilians?

Military issue watches, such as those from the RAF or army supply corps, were strictly government property intended for active service personnel. They bear specific issue markings and service numbers on the case back.

After decommissioning, many entered civilian circulation through military surplus channels or secondary markets, where collectors prize their utilitarian design.

What is a hunter pocket watch?

A hunter pocket watch includes a hinged metal lid that covers and protects the glass face. Pressing the crown opens the cover to reveal the dial.

Open-face watches lack this protective cover, presenting the dial permanently exposed beneath the crystal.

How should I store a mechanical watch?

Store mechanical watches in a dry environment away from direct sunlight and strong magnetic fields. A dedicated watch box prevents dust accumulation and accidental surface scratches.

If the watch is not in regular use, letting it wind down periodically prevents the lubricants from settling unevenly over long periods.

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