What is a dress clip?

A dress clip is a two-pronged fastener designed to clip onto the fabric of a garment, neckline, or lapel without piercing the material. Many historical examples were also engineered to detach from a frame and wear as individual brooches. They gained particular prominence during the Art Deco period, often appearing as double clip brooches that offered versatility in how jewellery could be displayed on evening wear.

How do I wear an antique clip?

These clips attach securely to sturdy fabrics such as wool, heavy silk, velvet, or lapels using their original mechanical backing. Securing them to lightweight materials can cause sagging or fabric damage due to the weight of platinum and diamonds. Collectors frequently adapt double clip brooches by mounting them onto dedicated frames to wear them as standard brooches or pendants.

How do I date an antique clip?

Dating relies on the combination of metal choices, gemstone cuts, and stylistic markers such as geometric Art Deco lines or intricate Edwardian filigree. Georgian and Victorian pieces often incorporate closed-back settings, pinchbeck, or paste glass alongside hand-cut stones. Maker marks, hallmarks, and country-specific silver standards stamped on the reverse also provide precise chronological reference points.

What materials were used?

Makers utilised precious metals like platinum, 18ct gold, 14ct yellow gold, 9ct gold, and sterling silver, sometimes with a gilt finish. Gemstones range from high-carat diamonds and sapphires to yellow sapphires and pink pearls. Non-precious or decorative components include paste glass, enamel, marcasite, rock crystal quartz, black onyx, chrysoprase, and occasionally celluloid in novelty items.