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18ct Gold Target Ring
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18ct Gold Target Ring

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An 18ct gold target ring delivers concentric circles of coloured stones and diamonds designed to draw the eye directly to the centre.

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Sellingantiques  ·  Guide 474322026/2027 edition

18ct Gold Target Ring

An 18ct gold target ring delivers concentric circles of coloured stones and diamonds designed to draw the eye directly to the centre.

Introduction

18ct Gold Target Ring

When searching for an 18ct gold target ring, collectors encounter concentric geometric arrangements that became immensely popular during the Edwardian era and the Art Deco period. These circular cluster designs typically set a central sapphire, ruby, emerald or diamond within one or more surrounding tiers of smaller diamonds or contrasting gemstones. The listings show a strong representation of 1920s and 1930s white gold and platinum-topped examples, alongside earlier Victorian and Edwardian yellow gold interpretations.

The characteristic bullseye effect relies on precise concentric spacing, where contrasting colour rings create strong visual depth on the hand. While Art Deco pieces favour crisp geometric geometry and calibre cut stones, Edwardian and Victorian versions often lean towards softer floral daisy motifs. Pieces span from the late nineteenth century through to mid-century revivals, maintaining the core concentric principle across different decades.

How they were made

Materials and construction methods

Goldsmiths utilised 18ct yellow and white gold, frequently combining these with platinum settings to enhance the brilliance of old cut and transitional cut diamonds. The metalwork often involves intricate millegrain edges and pierced gallery work that supports the tiered arrangement without adding excessive weight to the finger.

Gemstones such as rubies, sapphires and emeralds are selected for vivid saturation to contrast sharply against the bright diamond borders. Stones are secured in collet settings or closely aligned channel and calibre arrangements, reflecting the precise hand-tooling characteristic of early twentieth-century jewellery workshops.

From the Sellingantiques archive

Listings span from the Victorian era through the 1920s Art Deco period up to 1960s interpretations, utilising diamonds, sapphires, rubies, emeralds and pearls.

What sets them apart

Judging quality in target rings

Quality rests in the precision of the concentric tiers and the matching proportion of the central stone to the outer borders. Superior examples maintain strict symmetry and tight stone spacing, ensuring the metal settings disappear beneath the uniform sparkle of the gems.

The choice and cut of the surrounding stones dictate the overall refinement of the piece. Fine rings employ crisp, well-matched calibre cuts or clean old cut diamonds that sit evenly in the plane without uneven gaps or irregular bezel heights.

Terms antiques dealers use

The 18ct Gold Target Ring Glossary

Target ring
A circular cluster ring featuring concentric rings of stones around a central point, creating a bullseye visual effect.
Calibre cut
Gemstones specifically shaped and faceted to fit tightly together in geometric rows without visible metal partitions.
Millegrain
A decorative technique applying a fine border of tiny raised metal beads along the edge of a setting.
Old cut diamond
Hand-faceted diamond cuts typical of the Victorian and Edwardian periods, featuring higher crowns and smaller tables.
Cluster ring
A ring design featuring multiple smaller stones arranged closely around a larger central gem.
Questions people ask

18ct Gold Target Ring: Frequently Asked Questions

How do I wear a target ring?

These pieces sit flat or slightly raised on the finger, making them suitable for daily wear with appropriate care for older stones.

Because of the concentric halo design, they often function effectively as statement engagement rings or distinctive dress rings.

What is the difference between Edwardian and Art Deco target rings?

Edwardian versions tend to utilise yellow gold and platinum with softer, floral or daisy-inspired curves and millegrain detailing.

Art Deco examples lean heavily into white gold and platinum with sharp geometric lines and calibre cut sapphires or rubies.

Are these rings made of solid 18ct gold?

The listings show bands and mounts fashioned from solid 18ct yellow or white gold, often paired with platinum settings for the diamond tiers.

This dual-metal construction was standard practice to keep the structural strength of gold while securing diamonds in white platinum.

How do I clean an antique target ring?

Gentle cleaning with warm soapy water and a soft brush removes everyday oils from beneath the closely set stones.

Harsh chemical dips and ultrasonic cleaners should be avoided to protect pearls and fragile antique settings.

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