How do I identify art nouveau jewellery?

Art nouveau jewellery is characterised by asymmetrical, flowing lines inspired by natural forms such as plants, flowers, insects and female figures. These pieces frequently incorporate enamel work and cabochon stones rather than heavily faceted gems. Look for the absence of rigid symmetry and the presence of whiplash curves in the metal framing. Makers during this period often used silver or various carats of gold to support translucent enamel details.

What is plique-a-jour enamel?

Plique-à-jour is a vitreous enamelling technique where the enamel is applied within a cell framework without a backing metal plate, allowing light to shine through. It creates an effect similar to the petals of a flower or the wings of a dragonfly. Because there is no foundational metal to support the enamel, pieces made with this method require delicate handling. It appears frequently in fine French pendants and decorative medals from the early nineteen hundreds.

How should I care for antique enamel jewellery?

Antique enamel requires careful maintenance to prevent cracking or scratching of the glass surface. Avoid exposing these pieces to harsh chemicals, ultrasonic cleaning machines or prolonged immersion in water. Store items individually in soft pouches to protect the enamel and delicate pearl or gemstone settings from impact. Gentle wiping with a soft, dry cloth is sufficient for regular cleaning.