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Platinum Shoulder Ring
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Platinum Shoulder Ring

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When choosing a platinum shoulder ring, you select a piece designed to showcase accent gems or metalwork along the band flanking the central stone.

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Sellingantiques  ·  Guide 598192026/2027 edition

Platinum Shoulder Ring

When choosing a platinum shoulder ring, you select a piece designed to showcase accent gems or metalwork along the band flanking the central stone.

Introduction

Platinum Shoulder Ring

A platinum shoulder ring concentrates attention on a central gem while integrating decorative details along the band, frequently encountered in engagement ring forms across the selection.

The inventory spans from the Edwardian period through Art Deco iterations into mid-century modern designs, reflecting shifts in taste from intricate openwork to streamlined silhouettes.

Central stones range from old-cut diamonds and sapphires to moonstones and aquamarines, secured in durable platinum settings that often incorporate smaller accent diamonds along the shoulders.

How they were made

Materials and construction

Craftsmen utilised platinum for its strength and bright white finish, sometimes pairing it with 18ct yellow gold or white gold for structural components and band shanks.

Gemstones such as old European cut diamonds, sapphires, and rubies were hand-set into the platinum mountings, with smaller accent stones flush-set or grain-set along the shoulders to complement the principal gem.

From the Sellingantiques archive

Listings feature platinum paired with various gold alloys, incorporating diamonds, sapphires, rubies, and aquamarines across Edwardian and mid-century styles.

What sets them apart

Assessing quality in shoulder rings

Quality depends on the proportion and symmetry of the central stone relative to the accent gems along the shoulders, alongside the precision of the metalwork.

Superior examples demonstrate crisp geometric detailing in Art Deco pieces or delicate milgraining in Edwardian mountings, where the integrity of the platinum setting matches the caliber of the stones.

Terms antiques dealers use

The Platinum Shoulder Ring Glossary

Shoulder
The upper portion of the ring band as it approaches the central setting, frequently embellished with diamonds, engraving, or structural metalwork.
Platinum
A dense, durable, and naturally white precious metal favoured for fine jewellery since the early twentieth century.
Old European Cut
A round brilliant-cut diamond style popular in the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries, characterised by a small table, high crown, and open culet.
Milgrain
A decorative border of tiny raised metal beads along the edges of a platinum setting, typical of Edwardian and Art Deco design.
Trilogy Ring
A ring featuring three main stones symbolising the past, present, and future, often accompanied by shoulder ornamentation.
Questions people ask

Platinum Shoulder Ring: Frequently Asked Questions

What is a platinum shoulder ring?

A platinum shoulder ring is a piece of jewellery featuring a central gemstone flanked by decorative elements, accent stones, or intricate metalwork along the sides of the band.

These rings gained prominence during the Edwardian and Art Deco periods, offering a durable and bright white platinum framework that enhanced the brilliance of the set gems.

How do I care for platinum jewellery?

Platinum is a robust and resilient metal that withstands daily wear well, requiring minimal maintenance beyond gentle cleaning with warm soapy water and a soft brush.

Over time, platinum develops a soft satin patina from normal use, which many collectors prefer, though it can be professionally polished to restore a high shine.

Can I resize a vintage platinum ring?

Most platinum rings can be resized by a skilled jeweller who works with platinum, though the presence of intricate shoulder details or side stones requires careful handling.

Jewellers usually add or remove a small section of metal from the unadorned lower portion of the shank to preserve the integrity of the design on the shoulders.

How do I identify an Art Deco platinum ring?

Art Deco platinum rings typically exhibit geometric symmetry, clean lines, and architectural motifs, often incorporating calibrated sapphires, emeralds, or old-cut diamonds.

The natural strength of platinum allowed artisans to create delicate openwork and secure stone settings without excess bulk, defining the aesthetic of the nineteen-twenties and thirties.

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