Old Cut Ruby Ring
An old cut ruby ring pairs deep red corundum with antique faceting, offering the rich character and hand-finished warmth that collectors seek.
Old Cut Ruby Ring
An old cut ruby ring brings together hand-faceted diamonds or characteristic rubies set in precious metals spanning the Victorian, Edwardian, and Art Deco periods.
These surviving pieces demonstrate the shifting jewellery aesthetics of the nineteenth and twentieth centuries, from ornate floral clusters to geometric platinum mountings.
How they were made
Goldsmiths fashioned these mounts primarily using 18ct yellow gold and platinum, often combining both metals to frame stones effectively.
Rubies and old cut diamonds were secured by hand using claw, bezel, or flush gipsy settings tailored to the specific shape of each gemstone.
Craftsmen utilised traditional hand tools to shape heavy gold bands and delicate gallery wire, ensuring structural integrity in rings meant for daily wear.
The listings show pieces spanning from the nineteenth century through the Edwardian and Art Deco eras, executed in gold, silver, and platinum.
What varies in quality
Quality rests in the origin and visual saturation of the ruby, with Burmese stones often commanding greater attention for their natural colour.
The precision of the old cut diamond faceting and its proportion relative to the central ruby dictates the visual balance of the piece.
The weight and durability of the metal mounting, alongside the intactness of any delicate scrollwork or engraving, distinguish superior examples.
Deakin & Francis
The Old Cut Ruby Ring Glossary
- Old cut
- A vintage diamond faceting style characterised by a smaller table, higher crown, and open culet, designed under candlelight.
- Cluster ring
- A setting style featuring a central gemstone surrounded by a tight border of smaller accent stones.
- Navette
- A boat-shaped mounting design that tapers to sharp points at either end, popular in Edwardian and Victorian pieces.
- Gipsy set
- A mounting technique where the gemstone is flush with the metal surface, secured by hammering the surrounding gold over the girdle.
- Trilogy
- A three-stone ring configuration often interpreted to represent the past, present, and future.
Old Cut Ruby Ring: Frequently Asked Questions
How do I care for an old cut ruby ring?
Clean these rings gently using warm soapy water and a soft brush, avoiding harsh ultrasonic cleaners that might damage antique settings or treated stones.
Store them separately in fabric pouches to prevent the harder diamonds from scratching the softer ruby and surrounding gold.
Can I wear an antique ruby ring daily?
Rubies possess high natural hardness, making them suitable for regular wear when secured in sturdy gold or platinum mountings.
Prongs and gallery work on delicate Victorian or Edwardian pieces should be inspected periodically by a professional jeweller to prevent stone loss.
How do I distinguish Victorian from Art Deco rings?
Victorian rings frequently utilise rich yellow gold, ornate floral motifs, and gypsy or cluster arrangements with warm organic lines.
Art Deco examples lean towards platinum settings, geometric symmetry, and sharp linear designs that reflect the machine age aesthetic.
What is an old mine cut diamond?
An old mine cut is an early precursor to the modern round brilliant, featuring a cushion outline and hand-cut facets that catch ambient light uniquely.
These stones appear frequently alongside rubies in pieces dating from the nineteenth and early twentieth centuries.