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Mid Century Sapphire Jewellery
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Mid Century Sapphire Jewellery

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Mid century sapphire jewellery brings together vibrant blue stones, rich platinum settings and geometric diamond clusters from the nineteen forties and fifties.

Object forms span rings, bracelets, brooches, necklaces, and earrings dated across the nineteen forties and fifties.

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Sellingantiques  ·  Guide 882072026/2027 edition

Mid Century Sapphire Jewellery

Mid century sapphire jewellery brings together vibrant blue stones, rich platinum settings and geometric diamond clusters from the nineteen forties and fifties.

Introduction

Mid Century Sapphire Jewellery

Mid century sapphire jewellery encompasses cocktail rings, cluster rings, bracelets, necklaces, brooches and earrings originating principally from the nineteen forties, fifties and sixties.

Buyers seeking this phrase encounter pieces shaped by mid century and retro design movements, frequently pairing central blue, pink, yellow or star sapphires with sparkling diamond accents.

The selection ranges from substantial platinum dress rings set with unheated Ceylon or Kashmir stones to delicate gold clasps on pearl necklaces.

How they were made

Materials and Techniques

Goldsmiths utilised platinum and various gold alloys, including yellow gold, eighteen carat white gold and fourteen carat gold, to house prominent gemstones securely.

Diamonds cut as brilliants, roses or baguettes surround central sapphires in cluster mounts, floral motifs and crossover arrangements.

Specialised techniques such as millegrain detailing and platinum setting work define the structural metalwork supporting these significant stones.

From the Sellingantiques archive

An inquisitive owl brooch wears a tiny ruby eye alongside a sapphire belly.

What sets them apart

Judging Quality

Quality rests upon the natural origin, geographical provenance and heat treatment status of the sapphire, with unheated stones from sources like Ceylon or Kashmir commanding particular attention.

The visual harmony between the central sapphire and its surrounding diamond pavé or cluster work determines the overall elegance of the piece.

The weight, clarity and colour saturation of both the primary gem and the accompanying diamonds dictate the distinction of individual items.

Notable makers of mid century sapphire jewellery

Gubelin

Terms antiques dealers use

The Mid Century Sapphire Jewellery Glossary

Unheated sapphire
A natural gemstone that has undergone no thermal enhancement to improve its colour or clarity. Such stones retain their genuine earth-formed optical properties.
Cluster ring
A ring design featuring a prominent central gemstone encircled by a group of smaller stones, typically diamonds. This arrangement maximises overall visual impact and sparkle.
Star sapphire
A variety of sapphire that exhibits a star-like phenomenon known as asterism when illuminated. This optical effect results from microscopic rutile crystal inclusions.
Millegrain
A decorative jewellery technique involving a line of tiny metal beads along the edge of a setting. It provides a refined, textured finish typical of vintage mountings.
Crossover ring
A ring style where the shank sweeps around to cross over the finger, often displaying two main stones or a gemstone and diamond pairing side by side.
Questions people ask

Mid Century Sapphire Jewellery: Frequently Asked Questions

How do I care for mid century sapphire rings?

Clean your ring gently using warm soapy water and a soft brush, avoiding harsh chemical ultrasonic cleaners that might damage older platinum or gold settings.

Store separate from harder gemstones to prevent scratching the metalwork and inspect the claw settings periodically.

Are these sapphires completely natural?

Many pieces feature natural stones, and specific listings note whether a sapphire is unheated or originates from classic locations like Ceylon or Kashmir.

Gemological reports often accompany these significant pieces to verify their natural status and origin.

What styles dominate nineteen fifties jewellery?

The era favours bold cocktail rings, floral clusters and geometric platinum designs that showcase large central gems alongside pavé diamonds.

Bracelets and necklaces from this period also utilise gemstone clasps as focal points for cultured pearl strands.

Can I wear these pieces every day?

Sapphires score high on the hardness scale, making them durable enough for regular wear when set securely in robust platinum or gold mountings.

However, delicate pearl necklaces and intricate vintage brooches benefit from more careful, occasional handling.

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