What is an antique mourning brooch?

An antique mourning brooch is a commemorative jewel created to memorialise a deceased person, usually featuring elements like hair, portraits, black enamel or dark stones. These pieces were worn during periods of bereavement and served as tangible links to departed family members.

How do I wear a mourning brooch?

These brooches pin securely to heavy fabrics such as woollen coats, tailored jackets or heavy scarves. Their substantial weight, particularly in locket or cross formats, requires a firm weave to support the mount. They pair well with dark or neutral tones that complement the onyx, jet, tortoiseshell or dark gold of the piece.

How can I tell a Georgian brooch from a Victorian one?

Georgian brooches often feature closed-back settings where foil was placed behind stones to enhance colour, alongside delicate flat cut garnets and hair work under plain glass. Victorian examples tend to be heavier, incorporating Etruscan revival wirework, pique tortoiseshell and seed pearl clusters. Construction details and mounting styles shift visibly between the late eighteenth century and the later nineteenth century.

What are these brooches made from?

The materials include gold in various carats, silver, tortoiseshell, glass, onyx, garnet, diamond and seed pearls. Enamel and human hair also appear frequently as core components of the memorial design. Makers selected these durable, subdued materials to reflect the solemn character of remembrance jewellery.