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Large Brooch

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A large antique brooch brings heavy Victorian gold, Scottish agate and platinum Art Deco geometry straight to the coat lapel.

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Sellingantiques  ·  Guide 1332802026/2027 edition

Large Brooch

A large antique brooch brings heavy Victorian gold, Scottish agate and platinum Art Deco geometry straight to the coat lapel.

Introduction

Large Brooch

A large antique brooch is a substantial fastening piece worn on heavy fabrics, encountered most frequently in Victorian gold and silver alongside Edwardian diamond work. These pieces span Scottish pebble designs, shell cameos and floral diamond clusters that double as pendants.

The form stretches from nineteenth-century Etruscan Revival lockets and citrine plaid pins to Art Deco platinum geometry and Chinese filigree butterflies. Buyers encounter substantial centre stones, including carbuncle garnets, topazes and aquamarines, mounted securely in gold or silver frames.

Originating across Britain, France, Norway and China, these substantial ornaments serve as wearable sculpture. They display narrative scenes, regional Celtic motifs and naturalistic forms like horseshoe pins and fish.

How they were made

Materials and Techniques

Metals span standard and high-carat gold, silver, silver gilt and platinum, often combined in dual-tone settings to contrast silver sparkle against warm gold. Stones are secured in collet or prong settings, while shell and hardstone are meticulously carved for relief cameos and multi-coloured agate pebble layouts.

Artisans employed filigree wirework, enamel, foil backing for paste stones, and repoussé shaping in silver and gold. Gemstones feature old cut and rose cut diamonds, alongside natural seed pearls, turquoise, rubies and heavy quartz varieties.

From the Sellingantiques archive

Listings feature Victorian, Edwardian and Art Deco periods utilising silver, gold, platinum, agate, shell, garnet and turquoise.

What sets them apart

Evaluating the Pieces

Quality rests on the crispness of hand-carving in cameos and the depth of repoussé metalwork. Superior examples display tight stone matching in multi-gem clusters and secure, integrated hinge and pin mechanisms.

Artistic execution distinguishes the selection, seen in balanced gemstone proportions, detailed enamel portraiture and the structural integrity of heavy gold frames or multi-stone platinum mountings.

Notable makers of large brooch

R. Pernice

Terms antiques dealers use

The Large Brooch Glossary

Carbuncle
A cabochon-cut garnet, left un-faceted to show a deep, smooth red dome.
Pique
Inlay work using tiny pieces of gold or silver to form patterns on tortoiseshell or dark ground materials.
Repoussé
A metalworking technique where the design is hammered into relief from the reverse side.
Paste
Hand-cut glass used historically in place of gemstones to achieve bright colour and light reflection.
Questions people ask

Large Brooch: Frequently Asked Questions

How do I wear a large antique brooch?

Pin the piece firmly through heavy winter coats, thick wool scarves or structured jacket lapels to support the substantial weight.

Ensure the safety catch or C-clasp is securely fastened behind the fabric before wearing.

Can a brooch also be a pendant?

Many larger antique designs incorporate a hidden fold-down loop or fixed bale at the reverse alongside the pin mechanism.

This dual function allows the ornament to transition smoothly from lapel fastening to a heavy neck chain.

How do I date a Scottish pebble brooch?

Look for local hardstones like agate, jasper and citrine set into silver Celtic shields, dirks or plaid pins originating from the mid-nineteenth century.

Edinburgh hallmarks and specific regional motifs such as crowns or swords help narrow the decade.

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