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Antique Platinum Sapphire Ring

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An antique platinum sapphire ring brings together bright white metal and deep blue stones from the early twentieth century.

£1,245
3+ MONTHS AGO
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Sellingantiques  ·  Guide 2179472026/2027 edition

Antique Platinum Sapphire Ring

An antique platinum sapphire ring brings together bright white metal and deep blue stones from the early twentieth century.

Introduction

Antique Platinum Sapphire Ring

When searching for an antique platinum sapphire ring, buyers encounter pieces primarily shaped by the Art Deco and Edwardian eras. These jewels take the form of dress rings, cluster configurations, and elongated navette or plaque designs.

The most frequent version on this page pairs a central blue sapphire with surrounding diamonds, set in dense platinum frames. Origins span across French workshops alongside British and continental examples from the nineteen tens to the nineteen forties.

In brief

How they were made

Master jewellers of the period utilised platinum for its strength, allowing for delicate millegrain edges and fine pierced settings without bulk. This white metal holds small old cut diamonds tightly alongside larger sapphire centre stones.

Gold appears frequently as an alternative or backing material, specifically eighteen carat yellow gold and white gold. Stones receive various cuts, including standard faceting, calibré cuts fitted closely together, and older organic proportions.

From the Sellingantiques archive

Several rings feature tiny hidden triangular air holes beneath the sapphire to let light travel directly through the deep blue pavilion.

What sets them apart

What varies in quality

The distinction between tiers rests upon the origin and treatment of the central stone, such as unheated stones from Kashmir, Ceylon, or Burma commanding specific attention. Natural colour distribution and saturation within the sapphire dictate visual depth.

Metalwork execution defines the upper range, where hand-pierced gallery work and precise channel or claw setting remain crisp and undamaged through decades of wear. The integration of matching old cut diamonds with correct proportions completes the superior construct.

Terms antiques dealers use

The Antique Platinum Sapphire Ring Glossary

Navette
A boat-shaped ring design that stretches lengthwise along the finger. This silhouette was favoured during the Art Deco period.
Millegrain
A decorative technique featuring tiny raised beads of metal along the edges of a setting. It adds a soft texture to platinum borders.
Calibré cut
Small gemstones shaped specifically to fit tightly into geometric channels or patterns. These stones lack standard round proportions.
Target cluster
A concentric ring design with a central stone surrounded by contrasting rings of gems. It creates a bold geometric appearance.
Old cut diamond
A hand-faceted diamond cut before modern machinery standardised proportions. These stones feature smaller tables and larger culets.
Questions people ask

Antique Platinum Sapphire Ring: Frequently Asked Questions

How do I care for my ring?

Platinum and sapphire endure daily wear well, yet harsh chemicals and ultrasonic cleaning can damage older settings. Regular checks by a specialist ensure the tiny claws holding the stones remain secure.

Store the piece separately from other jewellery to prevent diamond facets from scratching the softer platinum metal or the sapphire surface.

Can these rings be resized?

Most platinum and gold settings allow for careful resizing by a skilled jeweller experienced in antique pieces. The intricate gallery work on the shoulders requires caution to preserve original engravings and pierced details.

Consult a specialist who can assess the band thickness and determine the appropriate method for adjustment without compromising the structural integrity.

Are unheated sapphires different?

Unheated sapphires have not undergone thermal enhancement to improve their natural colour or clarity. This geological state adds significant interest for collectors seeking untouched stones.

Certification from gemological laboratories often accompanies these specific sapphire rings to verify their origin and lack of treatment.

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