What is a Dirty Dozen watch?

The Dirty Dozen refers to a group of twelve wristwatches supplied to the British Ministry of Defence by specific Swiss manufacturers during the Second World War. These pieces share standardised military specifications including black dials, Arabic numerals, small seconds sub-dials and stainless steel or nickel-chromium cases. Marked with the letters WWW on the caseback alongside the broad arrow symbol, these watches were built for active service durability. They remain among the most sought-after military wristwatches on the market today.

How do I identify a First World War trench watch?

First World War trench watches are characterised by their early wristwatch architecture, typically featuring enamel dials with luminous radium or paint numerals and railroad tracks. Many include distinctive hinged or removable metal shrapnel guards designed to protect the glass from impacts in combat. The cases are often silver or nickel with soldered wire lugs rather than spring bars, accommodating pass-through leather straps. Hallmarks inside the caseback generally date these pieces to the 1910s.

What do military issue markings mean?

Military issue markings indicate government ownership and specify the branch of service, department or intended use for a piece of equipment. These include broad arrow symbols, serial numbers and specific codes denoting army, navy or air force contracts. For instance, RAF pilot watches carry specific department codes and serial numbers on the caseback. These stamps provide documentary evidence of a piece's history and active service deployment.

How should I care for an antique mechanical watch?

Antique mechanical watches require careful handling, regular manual winding and protection from moisture, magnetic fields and heavy impacts. Because vintage lubricants dry out over time, these movements benefit from professional servicing by a specialist familiar with historic calibres. Leather straps should be treated gently, and pocket watches should be secured with appropriate silver chains and fobs to prevent drops. Keeping a vintage watch away from water is essential, as historic case seals rarely offer modern water resistance.