1920s Gold Jewellery
These pieces of 1920s gold jewellery capture the geometric spirit and vibrant gemstone combinations of the Art Deco era.
1920s Gold Jewellery
When you search for 1920s gold jewellery, you encounter an array of rings, drop earrings, necklaces, and brooches originating predominantly from the 1920s and 1930s. The selection on this page relies heavily on rings and necklaces fashioned in the prevailing geometric aesthetic of the time.
The objects span everyday adornments like wedding bands and signet rings to elaborate dress rings set with diamonds and sapphires. Many items reflect the geometry of Art Deco alongside occasional excursions into Egyptian Revival motifs.
Most examples merge yellow or white gold with platinum settings to secure diamonds, rubies, emeralds, and pearls. Buyers frequently find diamond solitaire engagement rings, cluster rings, and pendant necklaces that display the characteristic handiwork of the decade.
How they were made
Maker workshops employed 9ct and 18ct gold, often combining white gold or platinum settings to enhance the brilliance of old-cut diamonds and coloured stones. Metal components were cast, engraved, or linked together to form flexible chains, heavy signet rings, and intricate bar brooches.
Gemstones such as sapphires, rubies, and citrines were cut into specific shapes, including calibre cuts and trapezoids, to fit flush within geometric metal frameworks. Pearls and opals were incorporated into necklaces and drops, supported by secure clasps and hand-restrained settings.
Among the delicate rings and pearl strands, tiny enamelled sarcophagus propelling pencil pendants wait to guard your smallest secrets.
What varies in quality
The grade of materials and the precision of the stone setting dictate the distinction between standard and superior pieces. Items utilising platinum alongside 18ct gold or white gold generally represent higher manufacturing standards than those cast purely in lower carat golds or silver-gilt combinations.
The refinement of hand-engraving, the symmetry of calibre-cut sapphires or diamonds, and the preservation of original links on chains and bracelets all determine the overall integrity of the piece.
The 1920s Gold Jewellery Glossary
- Art Deco
- A design style emerging around 1920 characterised by sleek geometric shapes, stylised motifs, and symmetrical patterns. This aesthetic heavily influences the mountings and stone arrangements seen in jewellery of the period.
- Calibre cut
- A gemstone cut into a specific small, geometric shape designed to fit tightly alongside other stones without visible metal separating them. It is frequently observed in sapphire and ruby borders on rings and brooches.
- Old cut diamond
- A diamond cut style pre-dating modern brilliant faceting, featuring a smaller table, higher crown, and open culet. These stones catch candlelight differently than modern cuts.
- Albert chain
- A short watch chain designed to be attached to a waistcoat buttonhole and secured to a pocket watch. Trombone and love knot links are typical variations found in this category.
- Target ring
- A cluster ring featuring a central diamond surrounded by concentric circles of contrasting gemstones, such as sapphires and smaller diamonds, creating a bullseye visual effect.
1920s Gold Jewellery: Frequently Asked Questions
How do I identify Art Deco jewellery?
Art Deco pieces are defined by straight lines, chevrons, stepped designs, and symmetrical arrangements of gemstones. White gold and platinum were frequently utilised to create a contrasting backdrop against yellow gold.
Motifs draw heavily from geometric abstraction and occasionally archaeological discoveries, such as Egyptian Revival elements.
What are old cut diamonds?
Old cut diamonds are antique stones shaped by hand before modern mechanical cutting techniques were standardised in the mid-twentieth century. They typically exhibit smaller tables and deeper pavilions that produce a softer, warmer glow.
These stones are characteristic of engagement and dress rings from the 1920s and earlier periods.
Are pearls in 1920s necklaces original?
Many pearl necklaces from this era have been restrung over the decades to maintain the structural integrity of the silk threads. Certified natural or cultured pearls are often mounted with diamond and white gold clasps.
Buyers should examine the knotting between pearls and the security of the decorative clasp.
What is a target ring?
A target ring is a specific style of cluster ring where a central gemstone is encircled by one or more geometric bands of contrasting coloured stones or diamonds. This layout creates a distinct circular focal point resembling a target.
They are commonly set in 18ct gold and platinum during the 1920s and 1930s.