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Platinum Target Ring

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When you search for a platinum target ring, you are looking at concentric circles of precious stones designed during the height of the Art Deco period.

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Sellingantiques  ·  Guide 474242026/2027 edition

Platinum Target Ring

When you search for a platinum target ring, you are looking at concentric circles of precious stones designed during the height of the Art Deco period.

Introduction

Platinum Target Ring

A platinum target ring takes its name from the distinctive bullseye pattern formed by concentric rings of contrasting gemstones set around a central diamond or coloured stone. The vast majority of these pieces originate from the Art Deco era of the 1920s and 1930s, alongside earlier Edwardian examples and later mid-century revivals.

The form typically combines a central stone enclosed by a contrasting border of calibre-cut sapphires, rubies or emeralds, framed further by brilliant or old-cut diamonds. Platinum was the metal of choice for this geometric layout due to its strength, which allowed for delicate millegrain edges and intricate openwork without sacrificing durability.

Buyers will encounter these designs primarily as dress rings, cocktail rings, or engagement rings. The configuration prioritises geometric symmetry and strong visual contrast, creating a striking profile on the finger that defines the modernist aesthetic of the interwar years.

In brief

How they were made

The construction relies heavily on platinum, often paired with 18ct white gold or yellow gold shanks, providing a robust yet malleable framework for secure stone setting. Metalsmiths utilised channel and bezel settings alongside meticulous hand-pierced gallery work to form the concentric tiers characteristic of the target motif.

Gemstones such as diamonds, sapphires, rubies and emeralds were specifically cut to shape, including old European cuts and precise calibre cutting to fit the tight geometric curves of the concentric rings.

The market

Platinum Target Ring Retail Price Guide 2026

Entry-levelUnder £1,600
Typical prices£1,600 – £2,900
Premium examplesOver £2,900

Typical asking prices for platinum target ring among the pieces listed under this phrase on Sellingantiques today, from the lower quarter to the upper quarter. They describe what is for sale here now, not the wider market.

From the Sellingantiques archive

Concentric rings were engineered so precisely that peering into the centre can induce mild hypnosis before breakfast.

What sets them apart

What varies in quality

Quality rests upon the precision of the geometric symmetry and the uniformity of the calibre-cut border stones. Master jewellers achieved seamless alignment where each stone in the concentric circles met without awkward gaps or irregular spacing.

The choice and matching of the central gem against the outer halo dictate the upper echelon of these pieces, alongside the crispness of the hand-worked millegrain decoration and the structural integrity of the delicate platinum under-gallery.

Terms antiques dealers use

The Platinum Target Ring Glossary

Target ring
A ring design featuring concentric bands of contrasting gemstones arranged in a bullseye pattern around a central stone. This style reached the height of its popularity during the Art Deco period.
Calibre cut
Gemstones specifically shaped, usually into small squares or rectangles, to fit tightly together in a continuous channel or border. This technique creates clean geometric lines typical of vintage jewellery.
Millegrain
A decorative technique involving a row of tiny raised metal beads along the edge of a setting. It adds texture and softens the transition between metal and stone.
Old cut
A diamond cutting style prevalent before the standardisation of the modern brilliant cut in the mid-twentieth century. These stones typically feature smaller tables, higher crowns and deep pavilions that catch candlelight effectively.
Plaque ring
A flat, disc-shaped ring setting that sits low to the finger, often densely paved with diamonds and coloured stones. They provide a wide canvas for intricate geometric patterns.
Questions people ask

Platinum Target Ring: Frequently Asked Questions

How do I wear a target ring?

These pieces sit flat on the hand, making them comfortable for daily wear as engagement or dress rings.

Because of their geometric width, many collectors prefer to wear them alone on the hand to let the concentric pattern stand out without competing bands.

What is the difference between Edwardian and Art Deco rings?

Edwardian pieces tend to lean towards softer floral motifs, such as daisy clusters, combining platinum with yellow gold.

Art Deco examples shift sharply towards strict geometry, symmetry and all-platinum settings.

Are coloured stones natural in these rings?

Sapphires, rubies and emeralds set in these antique pieces are typically natural gems mined during the period.

Grading reports often specify the geographical origin and treatment status of stones like emeralds and sapphires.

How do I clean a platinum target ring?

Warm soapy water and a soft brush will safely remove everyday oils from the intricate millegrain and tight stone settings.

Avoid harsh ultrasonic cleaners if the ring contains emeralds or pearls, as these materials require gentle handling.

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