Platinum Bezel Set Ring
A platinum bezel set ring offers a secure, sleek setting that showcases diamonds and sapphires with clean lines.
Platinum Bezel Set Ring
A platinum bezel set ring encases the gemstone within a continuous metal rim rather than holding it with traditional claws or prongs. This search phrase brings together pieces primarily spanning the Edwardian era, the nineteen-twenties, and the nineteen-thirties, alongside mid-century and later twentieth-century examples.
The inventory on this page relies heavily on diamond solitaires, clusters, and multi-stone configurations such as trilogy rings. Alongside diamonds, sapphire and emerald gemstones frequently appear set in platinum or combined with gold.
Art Deco styling dominates the earlier selections, bringing geometric precision to the bezel or rubover mounting technique. Buyers will encounter both platinum-heavy mountings and combinations featuring yellow gold or white gold bands.
Materials and Construction
Makers utilise durable platinum to construct secure bezels or rubover settings that fold smoothly over the girdle of the gemstone. This dense metal allows for delicate structural lines while providing robust protection for older cut stones like old cushions and old pears.
Jewellers often combine platinum with eighteen-carat gold, utilising yellow gold or white gold for the shank while reserving platinum for the setting head. Gemstones such as diamonds, emeralds, and sapphires are selected to fit these tailored metal housings.
Old cut diamonds hide tiny secret fires inside their chunky facets, winking warmly across the room while modern stones just show off.
Assessing Quality and Execution
The standard of a bezel setting depends on the precision of the metal edge where it meets the gemstone. A superior piece displays an even, flush rubover boundary that follows the exact contours of the stone without excess metal or gaps.
The quality of the overall design is evident in how the platinum or mixed metals balance the central stones, whether in a single solitaire or a multi-stone cluster. Art Deco and Edwardian examples demonstrate varying degrees of fine millegrain work and geometric harmony within the mounting.
The Platinum Bezel Set Ring Glossary
- Bezel set
- A method of securing a gemstone where a thin collar of metal is pushed or hammered over the edge of the stone. This technique holds the gem firmly while creating a smooth profile.
- Rubover
- A setting style synonymous with the bezel, where the metal completely surrounds the stone. It protects the girdle and offers a snag-free surface.
- Old cut
- A diamond facet arrangement typical of antique jewellery predating modern brilliant cuts. These stones feature smaller tables and steeper crown angles.
- Trilogy ring
- A ring featuring three distinct gemstones mounted in a row. They often represent the past, present, and future.
- Millegrain
- A decorative edging technique consisting of a line of tiny metal beads. It is frequently seen on Edwardian and Art Deco platinum mountings.
Platinum Bezel Set Ring: Frequently Asked Questions
What is a bezel set ring?
A bezel set ring encloses the outer edge of a gemstone within a metal rim or collar, securing it safely in place. This design provides a clean, modern silhouette that protects the girdle of the stone from knocks.
In the pieces listed here, platinum is the preferred metal for this technique due to its strength and durability. It contrasts with claw settings by offering a smooth, snag-free finish.
Are these rings genuinely antique?
The selection includes authentic period pieces dating from the Edwardian era through the nineteen-twenties and nineteen-thirties, alongside mid-century examples. Stylistic markers like hand-cut diamonds and specific metal combinations help define their era.
Art Deco geometry and Edwardian refinement appear frequently among the older dates. Each piece reflects the manufacturing methods and aesthetic tastes of its specific decade.
What stones are used in these rings?
Diamonds are the most common centre stones, often featuring old European or old cushion cuts. Sapphires and emeralds also appear regularly as focal points or accent stones.
These gems are paired with platinum or mixed gold shanks. Cluster and trilogy configurations frequently combine diamonds with coloured gemstones.
How do I care for platinum jewellery?
Platinum is a robust and durable metal that resists corrosion and holds its structure well over time. Regular cleaning with warm soapy water and a soft brush maintains its polished finish.
Unlike white gold, platinum does not require plating to maintain its colour. Over the years, it develops a soft patina which many collectors appreciate.