Antique Ruby Five Stone
An antique ruby five stone ring brings together graduated red gems and gold or platinum to sit low on the finger.
Antique Ruby Five Stone
The stones are typically rubies set alongside diamonds, sometimes alternating in sequence or bordered by smaller diamonds. Bands are fashioned from 18ct yellow gold, 15ct gold, or platinum, often bearing Chester or Birmingham hallmarks that record the exact year of assay.
How they were made
Goldsmiths worked primarily with 18ct gold and platinum, casting or hand-fabricating bands to hold the stones securely. Stones were secured using claw settings or boat-shaped mounts that raised the rubies and diamonds to meet the light.
Old cut and old mine cut diamonds were shaped by hand, giving them softer facets than modern brilliant cuts, while rubies were selected for their deep red hue to sit shoulder to shoulder in the linear mount.
What varies in quality
The depth and saturation of the ruby colour dictate the visual weight of the piece, alongside the clarity and cut of any accompanying diamonds. Older hand-cut stones show individual character in their facets, influencing how the ring catches candle or daylight.
Subtlety of metalwork, such as patterned shoulders or pierced galleries underneath the stones, separates standard production from finer goldsmithing work of the period.
The Antique Ruby Five Stone Glossary
- Old cut diamond
- A diamond shaped by hand before modern machinery, featuring a smaller table and a higher crown that produce a soft, candlelight glow.
- Boat ring
- A ring setting shaped like the hull of a boat, curving upwards towards the centre stones to create a pronounced profile on the finger.
- Navette ring
- A ring featuring a pointed, boat-shaped outline resembling a little ship, popular in late Victorian and Edwardian jewellery.
- Hallmark
- A series of stamped official marks indicating the metal purity, assay office, and year of creation for British items.
- Chrysoberyl
- A golden-green gemstone occasionally found alongside rubies in mid-Victorian multi-stone rings.
Antique Ruby Five Stone: Frequently Asked Questions
How do I wear a five stone ring daily?
These rings sit low on the hand, making them suitable for daily wear if treated with care. Take them off before heavy lifting or gardening to protect the claws.
Pair them alone on the finger so the stones remain the focus without rubbing against neighbouring bands.
How do I tell Victorian from Edwardian rings?
Victorian rings often utilise 15ct or 18ct yellow gold with robust settings and occasional dark patina. Edwardian pieces lean towards platinum tops and lighter gold bands with delicate openwork.
Hallmarks stamped inside the band provide the definitive year of creation for British pieces.
Are these rubies treated or natural?
Rubies from the nineteenth and early twentieth centuries are natural stones mined before modern high-heat treatment methods became common. Their inclusions and colour variations reflect their geological origin.
Examining the stones under a loupe reveals natural silk and crystal paths unique to unheated gems.
Why are diamonds paired with rubies?
Diamonds were added to contrast with the deep red of the ruby, increasing the overall sparkle of the horizontal row. Old cut diamonds catch light differently than modern stones, giving a quiet glitter.
This combination was a staple of high- Victorian and Edwardian design for everyday sentiment and engagement.