Why use both gold and platinum?

Jewellers used 18ct gold for the band to provide structural warmth and strength, while soldering platinum to the top surface. Platinum offered a strong white metal that held small claws securely around diamonds without adding yellow tones. This two metal method became popular during the Edwardian and Art Deco periods because platinum could be worked into finer wire and intricate geometric galleries.

How do I date these rings?

Dating relies on combining the gemstone cuts, the mount style and the metal combinations. Edwardian pieces often feature millegrain edges and delicate openwork, whereas Art Deco examples display geometric lines or platinum topped yellow gold shanks. Later mid century rings shift towards heavier gold work and different prong arrangements. Comparing the overall silhouette against known design eras clarifies the decade of manufacture.

Are old cut diamonds different?

Old European and old cut diamonds have hand polished facets that differ from modern brilliant cuts. They possess smaller tables and deeper pavilions, producing a broad, gentle flash rather than pinpoint sparkle. These stones were shaped individually by hand to fit antique settings, meaning no two cut stones are identical in proportion.

Can I wear an antique ring daily?

Daily wear is possible if the ring is checked regularly by a jeweller for claw wear and thin shanks. Platinum top settings hold stones firmly, but the softer 18ct gold band can thin over decades of friction against other jewellery. Removing the ring during heavy manual tasks protects the original claw work and prevents distortion of the antique metal.