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Platinum Claw Setting
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Platinum Claw Setting

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A platinum claw setting secures fine diamonds and sapphires in rings and earrings designed to maximise light capture.

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Sellingantiques  ·  Guide 656182026/2027 edition

Platinum Claw Setting

A platinum claw setting secures fine diamonds and sapphires in rings and earrings designed to maximise light capture.

Introduction

Platinum Claw Setting

When searching for platinum claw setting, buyers examine rings and earrings configured around individual gemstones or multiple stones. The pieces encompass solitaire engagement rings, trilogy designs, and stud earrings.

The inventory on this page draws predominantly from the Edwardian era, the Art Deco period, the 1940s, and the mid-century decades. Solitaire and multi-stone rings dominate the selection, frequently paired with diamonds or sapphires.

Makers utilise platinum alongside white gold, yellow gold, and 18ct gold to mount stones like old European cuts, transitional cuts, and old pear cuts. These combinations span classic fine jewellery to contemporary fine jewellery styles.

How they were made

Materials and Construction

Platinum serves as the primary metal for these claw settings, chosen for its strength and ability to hold fine gemstone arrangements securely with minimal visible bulk. Yellow gold, white gold, and 18ct gold appear in conjunction with platinum across various mountings.

Gems such as diamonds and Burmese sapphires are shaped into old European cuts, old pear cuts, transitional cuts, cushion cuts, and rose cuts. These stones are secured using delicate claws that lift the material to permit light entry from multiple angles.

From the Sellingantiques archive

Some old cut diamonds have spent over a century watching history unfold from their perch on platinum claws.

What sets them apart

Quality Variations

The standard of a piece rests upon the precision of the metalwork surrounding the stone and the proportional harmony of the mount. Master jewellers form slender, secure claws that anchor the diamond or sapphire without overwhelming its contours.

Gemstone selection dictates the upper tier of the range, where clarity, cut uniformity, and colour depth elevate the object. The integration of platinum with supportive metals like 18ct gold further distinguishes pieces designed for daily wear.

Notable makers of platinum claw setting

Kutchinsky

Terms antiques dealers use

The Platinum Claw Setting Glossary

Claw setting
A mounting style where thin metal prongs hold a gemstone in place, allowing maximum light to enter the pavilion and crown. This technique is standard in fine diamond rings and stud earrings.
Old European cut
An early brilliant diamond cut characterised by a small table, heavy crown, and large culet, prevalent in antique and Edwardian jewellery. These stones exhibit distinct hand-cut facets.
Trilogy ring
A ring featuring three principal gemstones, traditionally symbolising the past, present, and future. They frequently combine platinum settings with diamonds or sapphires.
Toi et Moi
A French term meaning you and me, describing a ring style featuring two main stones set closely together. This form appears in vintage pieces alongside platinum claw work.
Transitional cut
A diamond cut used during the period when cutters moved from old European styles to modern brilliants. It bridges antique faceting geometry with contemporary symmetry.
Questions people ask

Platinum Claw Setting: Frequently Asked Questions

What is a platinum claw setting?

A platinum claw setting utilises durable platinum prongs to secure gemstones like diamonds and sapphires in rings and earrings. This method maximises light exposure from all angles.

The strength of platinum permits slender prongs that hold stones securely while presenting a refined visual profile.

How do I identify Art Deco settings?

Art Deco settings typically feature geometric symmetry, sharp lines, and strong contrasts between platinum and underlying gold bands. These designs frequently showcase old cut diamonds.

Craftsmen during this era prioritised structured ornamentation, aligning clean architectural motifs with traditional stone arrangements.

Are these pieces suitable for daily wear?

Platinum offers exceptional durability and resistance to wear, making these rings and earrings robust choices for everyday use. The metal maintains its structural integrity over decades.

Regular checks on the claws ensure the stones remain firmly anchored within the platinum framework during routine activities.

What distinguishes old European cut diamonds?

Old European cut diamonds feature hand-cut facets, higher crowns, and distinctive small tables that catch candlelight differently than modern round brilliants. They are common in antique and vintage rings.

These historical cuts reflect the optical preferences of periods ranging from the Edwardian era through the mid-century.

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