Platinum Bezel Ring
A platinum bezel ring secures the stone within a smooth, encircling collar of metal, offering clean geometric lines alongside everyday security.
Platinum Bezel Ring
A platinum bezel ring brings together secure metal settings and enduring gemstones, most frequently encountered in pieces from the Art Deco period and the Edwardian era. These rings often showcase old cut diamonds alongside sapphires, emeralds, and rubies set into durable mountings.
The selection ranges from solitary diamond solitaires and three stone trilogy arrangements to intricate cluster and target configurations. Buyers will find these works spanning the early twentieth century through the mid-century modern era.
Metals and Construction
Makers utilised platinum for its strength and brilliant white finish, often combining it with 18ct gold or 18ct yellow gold to support complex stone arrangements. The rubover or bezel setting technique involves hammering or pressing the upper edge of the metal rim entirely around the gemstone to hold it firmly in place.
Gems such as old cut diamonds, emeralds, and rubies are secured flush within these heavy metal collars, creating a smooth surface that resists catching on clothing.
Assessing the Workmanship
Quality rests upon the precision of the metalwork surrounding the stone and the character of the gem itself, particularly in older cuts like old cushion and old pear shapes. Superior examples display an even, seamless collar of platinum that hugs the girdle of the gemstone without irregular thickness.
The integration of supporting stones within cluster and multi-stone arrangements also dictates distinction, where balanced proportions and carefully matched gems elevate the piece.
The Platinum Bezel Ring Glossary
- Bezel setting
- A method of mounting a gemstone where a thin strip of metal is wrapped around the stone to hold it securely. This is also referred to as a rubover setting.
- Old cut
- A diamond facet style popular before modern brilliant cutting standards, characterised by higher crowns and smaller tables. These stones exhibit a distinctive, softer candlelight sparkle.
- Target ring
- A geometric ring style featuring a central gemstone surrounded by concentric rings of contrasting smaller stones or different coloured metals. This design is particularly associated with the Art Deco period.
- Trilogy ring
- A ring featuring three main gemstones set in a row, traditionally symbolising the past, present, and future. They frequently utilise diamonds or a combination of diamonds and coloured stones.
- Solitaire
- A ring featuring a single prominent gemstone, usually a diamond. This form emphasises the qualities of the main stone without surrounding distractions.
Platinum Bezel Ring: Frequently Asked Questions
What is a platinum bezel ring?
A platinum bezel ring is a piece of jewellery featuring a gemstone held securely inside a continuous collar of platinum metal. This design creates a smooth, flat edge around the stone rather than holding it with traditional raised claws.
Such rings became especially popular during the early twentieth century, aligning with the clean geometric lines favoured in Art Deco and Edwardian designs.
How do I care for a bezel set ring?
Caring for these rings involves regular cleaning with warm soapy water and a soft brush to remove dirt trapped beneath the bezel rim. Because the metal surrounds the girdle of the stone, the setting itself offers robust protection against daily knocks.
Periodic inspection by a jeweller ensures the metal collar remains tight against the gemstone, maintaining its secure hold over decades of wear.
Are these rings suitable for daily wear?
These pieces suit everyday use exceptionally well because the metal rim covers the edges of the stone, preventing it from catching on fabrics or surfaces. Platinum provides a remarkably durable and resilient base that resists everyday wear and tear.
Many buyers choose them specifically as engagement rings that can withstand the demands of constant daily activity.