Openwork Gold Necklace
When you search for an openwork gold necklace, you enter a world of pierced metalwork set with pearls and coloured stones.
Openwork Gold Necklace
An openwork gold necklace brings together delicate piercing and precious metals, taking the form of pendants, lavaliers and drop necklaces. Pieces appearing here span the Victorian, Edwardian and Art Nouveau periods, with a concentration of Edwardian work. Designs frequently incorporate floral, foliate and geometric motifs, often suspending central gemstones from fine chains. The style relies on negative space within the metal framework to create light and intricate patterns.
Makers utilised various carats of gold, alongside platinum and silver gilt, shaping the metal into pierced scrolls and lattice structures. These items served as fashionable personal adornments throughout the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries, reflecting changing aesthetic movements. Buyers encounter formats that double as brooches, or feature detachable elements designed for versatile wear. The survival of these pieces demonstrates the enduring appeal of detailed metalwork combined with traditional gemstone settings.
How they were made
Goldsmiths constructed these items using yellow, rose and white gold in 9ct, 14ct, 15ct and 18ct purities, alongside platinum and silver gilt. Piercing techniques removed sections of sheet metal to form openwork patterns of scrolls, ribbons and lattice frames. Gemstones such as peridots, amethysts, aquamarines and tourmalines were secured using collet or claw settings, accompanied by seed pearls and diamonds.
Openwork Gold Necklace Retail Price Guide 2026
Typical asking prices for openwork gold necklace among the pieces listed under this phrase on Sellingantiques today, from the lower quarter to the upper quarter. They describe what is for sale here now, not the wider market.
What varies in quality
Quality depends on the precision of the piercing and the symmetry of the openwork design. Finer examples display clean, crisp edges within the metal framework and secure, flush stone settings without excess solder. The selection of stones also determines the tier of the piece, with well-matched natural pearls and richly coloured gemstones marking out superior workshop production.
S. Blanckensee & Son·Artificers Guild
The Openwork Gold Necklace Glossary
- Openwork
- Metalwork pierced or cut through to create a pattern with negative space. This technique defines the airy, lightweight appearance of Edwardian and Art Nouveau designs.
- Lavalier
- A pendant featuring a dangling stone or drop suspended from a shorter central element. This style gained popularity during the Edwardian era.
- Seed pearl
- Very small, naturally occurring pearls, often uncalibrated or slightly irregular in shape. They frequently outline floral and foliate motifs in Victorian and Edwardian jewellery.
- Collet setting
- A metal collar that wraps around the girdle of a gemstone to hold it in place. It represents a traditional method seen across nineteenth and twentieth-century pendants.
Openwork Gold Necklace: Frequently Asked Questions
How do I identify an Edwardian pendant?
Edwardian pieces typically employ lighter metalwork such as 9ct or 15ct gold and platinum, often combining pearls with peridots, aquamarines or amethysts in garland or lavalier formats.
The aesthetic leans towards delicate pierced frames and pastel stones, contrasting with the heavier, more robust stone settings of earlier Victorian jewellery.
Were these items worn daily?
Owners wore these necklaces for social occasions and daywear, reflecting the shifting fashions of the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries. Many designs included pin mechanisms on the reverse so the pendant could also function as a brooch.
This dual purpose made them versatile accessories for various forms of period dress.
What is Art Nouveau style?
Art Nouveau design draws inspiration from natural forms, featuring flowing asymmetrical lines, whiplash curves and stylised plant motifs. In these necklaces, gold is worked into organic shapes that wrap around cabochon garnets or amethysts.
This movement broke away from rigid historical revivals, prioritising artistic expression over symmetry.
How should I care for a pearl necklace?
Seed pearls require gentle treatment because organic material is softer than gemstones and precious metals. Avoid exposing them to harsh chemicals, perfumes or ultrasonic cleaners, wiping them with a soft cloth after wear.
Store them separately to prevent scratching against metal chains or harder stones.