What is an illusion set ring?

An illusion set ring is a piece of jewellery where a diamond is set into a specially faceted metal plate, usually platinum. This metal surrounding the stone reflects light to make the diamond look much larger than its actual carat weight. Such designs became particularly popular during the Art Deco period and the mid-century decades as a way to achieve a bolder visual presence.

How do I date an illusion set ring?

Dating relies on examining the overall style, the type of gold used, and the diamond cuts. Art Deco pieces from the 1920s and 1930s often feature geometric platinum settings on 18ct yellow gold bands. Victorian and Edwardian versions display different band profiles and earlier diamond cuts like old mine or transitional cuts. Hallmarks inside the shank also provide direct clues to the assay office and year of manufacture.

What diamond cuts appear in these rings?

The inventory records brilliant cut, old cut, transitional cut, and princess cut diamonds. Earlier pieces from the Victorian and Edwardian eras typically feature old cut stones. Later mid-century examples incorporate brilliant and transitional cuts paired with platinum or white gold settings.