Edwardian Yellow Gold Necklace
An edwardian yellow gold necklace brings together delicate golden links and soft natural stones that defined early twentieth-century style.
Edwardian Yellow Gold Necklace
An edwardian yellow gold necklace encompasses a wide range of period jewellery, from pendant drops set with aquamarines and seed pearls to substantial watch chains and longuards. The pieces frequently combine yellow gold with gemstones like amethyst, turquoise, and diamonds.
The version most commonly encountered on this page is the pendant necklace, often suspended from a fine chain, or the heavier albert and longuard chain adapted for neckwear. These items span the early decades of the twentieth century, with distinct influences from the preceding Victorian era and the flowing lines of Art Nouveau.
Materials and construction
Goldsmiths of the period utilised various purities of gold, notably nine-carat, fifteen-carat, and eighteen-carat yellow gold, sometimes paired with platinum or rose gold details. Chains were constructed from diverse link types such as trombone, curb, and oval links, often secured with dog clips or bolt rings.
Gemstones including aquamarine, amethyst, and topaz were combined with natural pearls, seed pearls, and paste stones. Settings frequently relied on delicate claw work, intricate filigree, and engraved cross or drop motifs typical of the Edwardian workshop.
Several chains include tiny dog clips originally meant to hold pocket watch keys.
Markers of quality
The distinction between tiers of these necklaces rests on the weight and purity of the gold, alongside the clarity and selection of the gemstones. Solid gold construction with fully hallmarked links represents a higher grade of manufacture than lighter, hollow alternatives.
Design complexity and the presence of maker marks or specific assay office stamps elevate a piece. Natural pearls and well-matched, sizable aquamarines or amethysts indicate superior original commissioning compared to routine commercial output.
Deakin & Francis
The Edwardian Yellow Gold Necklace Glossary
- Albert chain
- A short watch chain traditionally secured to a waistcoat, now frequently worn as a necklace. These chains often feature trombone or curb links.
- Longuard chain
- An extra-long chain designed to be doubled around the neck. They frequently incorporate dog clips and slider mechanisms.
- Lavalier
- A pendant necklace featuring a central dangling stone or drop motif. This style gained immense popularity during the Edwardian period.
- Seed pearl
- A very small, naturally formed pearl used extensively in clusters and floral motifs. They are often threaded on silk within period jewellery.
- Trombone link
- A watch chain link design alternating between elongated rectangular bars and small circular links. It provides both flexibility and visual rhythm.
Edwardian Yellow Gold Necklace: Frequently Asked Questions
How do I wear a longuard chain?
A longuard chain can be worn doubled over the head to sit lower on the chest. The attached dog clip allows you to suspend a pendant or tuck the ends securely.
Many collectors also wear them at their full single length, depending on the specific drop and weight of the gold links.
What is the difference between an albert and a standard chain?
An albert chain was originally made for pocket watches and typically includes a T-bar and a dog clip at the ends. When adapted for the neck, these components add distinct historical character.
Standard necklace chains are fastened with simpler spring rings or bolt rings and lack the traditional watch-securing hardware.
How can I date an Edwardian necklace?
Dating relies on hallmarks stamped on the gold components, indicating specific assay offices and import or manufacture years. Stylistic clues like Art Nouveau curves or specific stone cuts also point to the era.
Documentation from the period or original box fittings can offer further confirmation of the exact decade of manufacture.
Are seed pearls durable for daily wear?
Seed pearls require careful treatment because they are organic gems sensitive to cosmetics, perfumes, and moisture. Original stringing may degrade over time and necessitate professional restringing.
Storing the necklace away from hard metals prevents surface scratching on the delicate pearl nacre.