Edwardian Openwork Necklace
An edwardian openwork necklace brings together delicate metalwork and gems like peridot or seed pearl.
Edwardian Openwork Necklace
An edwardian openwork necklace centres on intricately pierced metal frames that lighten the profile of the pendant while holding gems securely. The most common forms on this page pair 9ct gold or 15ct gold with seed pearls, peridots, and amethysts.
Pieces frequently reflect the graceful curves of the Art Nouveau movement alongside structured Edwardian motifs. Pendant drops and lavalier designs dominate the selection, often suspended on fine matching chains.
Materials and construction
Goldsmiths utilised 9ct and 15ct yellow and rose gold alongside silver and platinum to build these delicate frames. Piercing and soldering techniques created airy, lace-like structures that allowed light to pass through the central stones.
Seed pearls, aquamarines, peridots, and diamonds were meticulously set into the metalwork, often secured by tiny handcrafted claws or bezels. Artisans combined gemstones with natural motifs such as clover leaves, floral drops, and foliate scrolls.
Listings feature 9ct and 15ct gold alongside silver and platinum, set with peridots, amethysts, aquamarines, and seed pearls.
Distinctions in quality
The refinement of the piercing work dictates the sophistication of the piece, separating rigid stampings from fluid, hand-finished scrolls. Superior examples display precise symmetry in their openwork alongside well-matched, lively gemstones.
The choice of gold purity and the original integrity of the delicate settings also separate standard workshop output from finer artisan commissions.
S Blanckensee And Son·WH Haseler·Liberty And Co
The Edwardian Openwork Necklace Glossary
- Openwork
- Metalwork pierced with patterns to create a transparent, lace-like design. This technique defines the airy character of these pendants.
- Lavalier
- A pendant featuring a primary gemstone drop suspended from a shorter decorative motif or chain. These pieces swing freely with movement.
- Seed pearl
- Very small natural saltwater pearls drilled and threaded into clusters or lines. They provide a soft luminous border to coloured stones.
- Art Nouveau
- A design style characterised by flowing, organic lines inspired by natural forms. It heavily influences the curved motifs found in this jewellery.
- Suffragette
- Pieces incorporating green, white, and violet stones symbolising the women's social and political union. Peridots, pearls, and amethysts frequently form these specific colour combinations.
Edwardian Openwork Necklace: Frequently Asked Questions
What is an edwardian openwork necklace?
It is a pendant featuring pierced metalwork created during the early twentieth century, typically showcasing geometric or organic patterns. These jewels often incorporate seed pearls and semi-precious gems.
They represent a distinct shift toward lighter, more feminine jewellery designs following the heavier styles of the Victorian era.
How do I wear an edwardian openwork necklace?
These pieces generally hang from fine gold or silver chains designed to sit near the collarbone or slightly lower on the chest. Their delicate scale suits evening wear as well as elevated daytime attire.
Care should be taken to avoid catching the intricate openwork on knitted fabrics or lace.
How are periods told apart?
Edwardian pieces tend to feature platinum or lighter gold work with symmetrical garlands or flowing organic curves. Victorian items often display heavier mountings and denser gemstone arrangements.
Assessing the back of the pendant and the style of the jump rings also helps confirm the period of manufacture.
Were these necklaces used as brooches?
Many examples from this era were manufactured with hidden folding bails and pin stems on the reverse. This dual functionality allowed the owner to wear the piece either suspended from a chain or pinned to clothing.
Inspect the reverse side of the metal frame to spot conversion fittings or integrated pin mechanisms.