Edwardian Necklace
An edwardian necklace brings delicate platinum work and warm yellow gold together with natural pearls and peridots.
Edwardian Necklace
When you search for an edwardian necklace, you meet delicate openwork pendants and long guard chains spanning the early decades of the twentieth century. These pieces reflect the transition from ornate late Victorian styles into flowing Art Nouveau and linear Art Deco forms.
You are most likely to encounter gold and platinum pendants set with seed pearls, peridots, and diamonds, alongside silver watch chains adapted for neck wear. Many examples combine Edwardian craftsmanship with adjacent periods like the Victorian era or the 1920s.
The selection ranges from simple gemstone drops on slender chains to elaborate fringe necklaces and enamel pieces bearing maker marks. Each item demonstrates the distinct ornamental vocabulary of the period, from naturalistic floral motifs to geometric arrangements.
How They Were Made
Goldsmiths of the era utilised nine-carat and fifteen-carat yellow and rose gold alongside emerging platinum to construct lightweight, strong settings. Fine wirework, millegrain edging, and pierced galleries allowed maximum light to reach diamonds, amethysts, and emeralds.
Enamelling techniques such as plique-à-jour added translucent colour to silver and gold frameworks, frequently paired with seed pearls or moonstones. Watch chains and guard chains were constructed from interlocking curb, trombone, and love knot links secured with swivel clasps or dog clips.
Some watch chains measure over sixty inches long, originally intended to loop multiple times across a Victorian waistcoat.
What Varies in Quality
The distinction between standard examples and the finest work lies in the delicacy of the piercing and the precision of the stone setting. Master workshops achieved finer millegrain work and more fluid metal scrollwork, whereas simpler pieces relied on heavier cast mounts.
The choice of materials also divides the range, with platinum and high-carat gold housing better quality old-cut diamonds and natural pearls. Maker attribution to notable firms elevates a piece above anonymous production of the same date.
Murrle Bennett·Charles Horner·Archibald Knox·Liberty and Co·Deakin and Francis
The Edwardian Necklace Glossary
- Millegrain
- A decorative technique involving a row of tiny raised metal beads along the edge of a setting. This softens the metal outline and adds texture.
- Lavalier
- A pendant featuring a main drop suspended from a smaller component, popular during the Edwardian period. It typically sways freely on a fine chain.
- Albert Chain
- A heavy watch chain originally designed to secure a pocket watch to a waistcoat. These are frequently worn today as short necklaces.
- Plique-à-jour
- An enamelling technique resembling miniature stained glass where enamel is fired without a backing, allowing light to pass through.
- Seed Pearl
- Very small natural or saltwater pearls threaded and sewn into intricate floral or geometric clusters. They define much of the early twentieth century aesthetic.
Edwardian Necklace: Frequently Asked Questions
How do I wear a long guard chain?
Long guard chains can be doubled around the neck or left hanging at their full length for a dramatic line. They often feature dog clips designed to hold small charms or watches.
Many people slip a pendant onto the centre of a doubled chain to create a layered effect. The substantial length allows for flexible styling depending on your outfit.
Are these necklaces made of platinum?
Platinum appears frequently in pieces from the later Edwardian and Art Deco periods. Its strength allowed jewellers to create extremely fine settings that secure diamonds safely.
Gold of various carats, including nine, fifteen, and eighteen-carat yellow and rose gold, remains common across all years. Silver is also widely used, particularly in enamelled and Arts and Crafts designs.
What is a lavalier necklace?
A lavalier is a pendant style featuring a central stone or motif with one or more dangling drops suspended below it. This design hangs centrally on the chest and moves with the wearer.
They often incorporate peridots, amethysts, and seed pearls mounted in yellow gold. The style was favoured during the height of the Edwardian era.
How do I care for pearl jewellery?
Pearls are organic gems that require gentle handling and benefit from being kept away from harsh chemicals and perfumes. Wipe them softly with a clean cloth after wearing to maintain their lustre.
If your necklace is strung on silk, check the threads periodically for signs of wear. Many older pieces are periodically restrung to ensure the safety of the pearls.