Art Deco Gemstone Necklace
An art deco gemstone necklace brings together geometric platinum or gold settings and vibrant stones like aquamarine, opal and sapphire.
Art Deco Gemstone Necklace
An art deco gemstone necklace spans pendant necklaces, drop necklaces and single strand beaded designs set with diamonds, pearls and coloured stones. You will most commonly encounter platinum and gold pendants featuring central aquamarines, sapphires or opals dating from the 1920s and 1930s.
The form relies on symmetrical geometry and clean lines characteristic of the period, often pairing faceted stones like citrine and tourmaline with carved rock crystal or jadeite. Pieces range from delicate silver and amazonite drops to substantial platinum mountings holding heavy aquamarine and diamond combinations.
Makers of the era utilised both precious and alternative materials, incorporating onyx, carnelian and nephrite jade alongside traditional pearls and diamonds. This variety means you find both high-status platinum diamond clusters and more accessible silver or 9ct gold gemstone pieces.
How they were made
Craftsmen built these necklaces using durable precious metals like platinum, 18ct white gold, yellow gold and silver to securely mount diverse gemstones. Platinum provided the strength needed for delicate, intricate openwork frames that held substantial diamonds and aquamarines without heavy metal backing.
Stones were shaped through precise cutting techniques, balancing faceted diamonds and sapphires with smooth cabochons of opal, jadeite and turquoise. Clasps often received equal attention, functioning as decorative elements featuring small diamonds and platinum details on pearl strands.
Some necklaces hide decorative clasps at the front so the fastening becomes part of the design.
What varies in quality
Quality rests primarily on the scale, weight and clarity of the central gemstones, alongside the complexity of the surrounding metalwork. A top-tier piece pairs substantial carat weights in aquamarine, sapphire or opal with fine diamond accents set in platinum.
Lesser pieces often substitute silver for platinum or utilise lower carat gold, though they maintain the stylistic hallmarks of the era. The precision of the stone carving and the integration of the clasp within the overall design also separate standard items from exceptional examples.
The Art Deco Gemstone Necklace Glossary
- Cabochon
- A gemstone shaped and polished with a smooth, rounded surface rather than faceted edges. This cut is typical for opals, jadeite and star stones in period jewellery.
- Doublet
- A composite gemstone made by joining two separate pieces, often a precious stone top on a supportive base. These appear in period opal pieces.
- Carat
- A unit of weight used for measuring gemstones and pearls. Heavier stones generally command more attention in period pieces.
- Openwork
- Metalwork pierced with decorative holes to create a lace-like pattern. This technique lightens heavy platinum settings in pendant designs.
- Spacers
- Small decorative elements placed at intervals along a beaded necklace. They separate pearls or gemstone beads while adding metal contrast.
Art Deco Gemstone Necklace: Frequently Asked Questions
How do I care for my necklace?
Store your necklace flat in a lined box to prevent scratches on softer stones like opal and jadeite. Avoid exposing vintage settings to harsh chemical cleaners.
Have the clasp and stone settings checked periodically by a professional jeweller to ensure the mountings remain secure.
Can I wear these necklaces daily?
Platinum and gold pieces with hard stones like diamond and sapphire withstand regular wear quite well. Softer materials require more mindful handling.
Take care with delicate drop necklaces and long pearl strands during high activity to avoid catching the links.
What defines the period style?
Geometric symmetry, stylised floral motifs and clean architectural lines dominate the aesthetic of the 1920s and 1930s. Settings prioritise the visual impact of the central gemstones.
Contrasting colours, such as onyx paired with coral or sapphire paired with diamond, are also widespread.
How are lengths and drops varied?
Necklaces range from close-fitting single strand pearl lengths to longer pendant drops that sit lower on the chest. The choice depends on the specific pendant design.
Shorter drops suit geometric settings, while longer chains accommodate heavier gemstone pendants.