Antique Gold Turquoise Jewellery
Antique gold turquoise jewellery combines vibrant blue mineral stones with yellow, rose, and white gold settings across rings, brooches, and pendants.
Antique Gold Turquoise Jewellery
When you search for antique gold turquoise jewellery, you encounter pieces spanning the Victorian, Edwardian, and Art Deco periods, alongside 19th-century designs. The selections on this page include rings, brooches, bracelets, necklaces, pendants, earrings, and longuard chains.
Victorian examples often incorporate pearls and diamonds in floral motifs, stars, hearts, and forget-me-knot designs, sometimes employing Etruscan Revival or Arts and Crafts styles. Edwardian items frequently display matrix turquoise alongside seed pearls in negligee necklaces, floral brooches, and drop earrings.
Later pieces bring in Art Deco and 1920s geometric influences, while individual items range from mourning lockets and propelling pencils to heavy curb bracelets and long guard chains. These items utilise 9ct, 12ct, 15ct, and 18ct gold, alongside rolled gold and silver-topped settings.
How they were made
Goldsmiths constructed these pieces using varying purities of yellow, rose, and white gold, alongside silver-topped mountings for diamond and gemstone settings. Stones include natural turquoise, matrix turquoise, seed pearls, and old-cut diamonds.
Techniques range from intricate wirework in Etruscan Revival pieces to enamel detailing and fine collet or prong settings. Chain construction involves trombone links, curb links, and long guard formats designed to secure charms, lockets, and pendants.
One Victorian rose gold charm takes the literal form of a working propelling pencil.
What varies in quality
The standard of antique gold turquoise jewellery depends on the uniformity and colour stability of the turquoise stones, the weight and purity of the gold mountings, and the intricacy of accompanying pearl or diamond work. Natural variations in matrix patterns and stone grading distinguish individual pieces.
Structural integrity in delicate forms like Edwardian negligee necklaces, multi-strand bracelets, and hollow rose gold charms determines how well a piece survives wear. The precision of granulation, enamel preservation, and clasp security also separate standard examples from finer workshops.
Deakin & Francis·Murrle Bennett
The Antique Gold Turquoise Jewellery Glossary
- Matrix turquoise
- Turquoise stones that retain traces of the host rock in webbing patterns across the gem. This veining gives individual stones a distinct earthy character.
- Negligee necklace
- A pendant style featuring asymmetrical drops suspended from a central chain. It gained popularity during the Edwardian era.
- Longuard chain
- An exceptionally long chain worn looped around the neck or secured to a waistband. They frequently measured past thirty inches to hold watches or lockets.
- Etruscan Revival
- A Victorian design movement inspired by ancient archaeological discoveries. It relies on fine gold wirework and granulation.
- Seed pearl
- Very small natural pearls used extensively in Victorian and Edwardian cluster jewellery. They are typically half-drilled and glued or pegged onto gold settings.
Antique Gold Turquoise Jewellery: Frequently Asked Questions
How do I care for antique turquoise jewellery?
Turquoise is a softer, porous gemstone that absorbs oils, cosmetics, and water easily. Clean pieces gently with a dry soft cloth and avoid chemical dips or ultrasonic cleaners.
Store items away from direct sunlight and other jewellery to prevent scratching the stones or discolouring the gold settings over time.
What gold purities appear in these pieces?
Items on this page utilise 9ct, 12ct, 15ct, and 18ct gold in yellow, rose, and white shades. Rolled gold and silver-topped settings also appear in specific Victorian and Edwardian pieces.
British hallmarks and carat stamps often help identify the specific metal purity and assay office origin.
How do I date an antique turquoise ring?
Dating relies on stylistic clues like Victorian floral motifs, Etruscan wirework, Edwardian millegrain edges, and Art Deco geometric lines. Hallmarks provide a reliable secondary guide when stamps remain clear.
Gemstone cuts, such as old-cut diamonds alongside seed pearls, further narrow down the era of production.
Were turquoise and pearls used together often?
Victorian and Edwardian jewellers frequently paired turquoise with seed pearls to create floral, star, and heart motifs. The contrast between bright blue stones and creamy white pearls defined the period style.
This combination appears across rings, brooches, pendants, and drop earrings listed in the inventory.