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Antique Button Set

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An antique button set gathers coordinated fasteners in precious metal or mother of pearl, often preserved in fitted cases for collectors.

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Sellingantiques  ·  Guide 883612026/2027 edition

Antique Button Set

An antique button set gathers coordinated fasteners in precious metal or mother of pearl, often preserved in fitted cases for collectors.

Introduction

Antique Button Set

An antique button set brings together matching fasteners created for garments, presented either loose or housed in fitted presentation boxes. These collections frequently surface from the Victorian and Edwardian periods, reflecting the era's demand for coordinated dress accessories.

The buyer encounters these sets in sterling silver, mother of pearl, and niello, with motifs ranging from floral designs to maritime subjects like galleon ships. Many survive complete with original velvet or leatherette cases, which protected the delicate metalwork and polished surfaces.

While some assemble dress buttons for costume use, others collect cased silver sets for their intricate hallmarks and artistic metalwork from the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries.

How they were made

Materials and construction

Makers utilised sterling silver and solid silver for the finest dress sets, applying techniques such as embossing, casting, and enamelling to create detailed surface decoration. Mother of pearl was carved and shaped with precision, capturing the iridescent quality desired for formal attire.

Cased sets required custom presentation boxes lined in velvet and satin, fitted with individual recesses to hold each fastener securely alongside companion pieces like belt buckles.

From the Sellingantiques archive

Sailors and sea captains occasionally commissioned tiny silver galleon ship buttons to display their nautical pride on formal waistcoats.

What sets them apart

Judging quality

Quality rests upon the crispness of the cast or carved detail and the integrity of the original presentation case. Sets retaining all matching components without replacement or repair command greater attention from collectors.

The presence of clear hallmarks providing maker marks and assay office details elevates the standing of silver pieces, whereas worn chasing or missing stones in enamelled examples diminishes the overall finish.

Notable makers of button set

James Deakin & Sons·Solomon Blanckensee Son

Terms antiques dealers use

The Antique Button Set Glossary

Hallmark
Official stamps applied to precious metals indicating the standard of purity, the assay office, and the maker. These marks allow researchers to date silver pieces accurately.
Niello
A black metallic alloy used as an inlay on engraved silver, creating high-contrast patterns. It was frequently utilised on Eastern European and continental imports.
Cased
Describes a set preserved within its original fitted presentation box. This packaging often retains velvet linings and maker details inside the lid.
Shank
The loop or protrusion on the reverse of a button used to attach it to a garment. Solid shanks indicate quality construction in antique metalwork.
Questions people ask

Antique Button Set: Frequently Asked Questions

What were antique button sets used for?

These fasteners adorned formal wear, heavy coats, and specialised garments during the nineteenth and early twentieth centuries. Wealthy individuals used matching sets to present a unified appearance across cuffs, bodices, and waistcoats.

Many sets were also given as gifts, housed in custom presentation boxes lined with velvet to protect the polished metal and delicate materials between wearings.

How should I store a cased set?

Keep the presentation box in a stable environment away from direct sunlight and excessive humidity. Light and moisture can tarnish silver and degrade the original fabric linings inside the case.

Leave the buttons resting securely within their fitted velvet recesses rather than loose in a container to prevent surface scratching and edge wear.

How do I identify silver period pieces?

Examine the reverse of the metal for stamped hallmarks, which indicate the assay office, standard of silver, and date letter. Comparing these marks against registered maker records provides precise chronological context.

Stylistic cues such as flowing botanical lines point towards Art Nouveau production, while heavier cast motifs often align with earlier Victorian manufacturing standards.

Are all buttons in a set identical?

Most surviving sets feature uniform sizing and matching decoration across every piece, though some collections pair larger coat fasteners with smaller sleeve buttons. Sets intended for dress wear occasionally incorporate a matching belt buckle alongside the individual fasteners.

Slight variations in hand-finished silver or carved mother of pearl indicate individual craftsmanship rather than machine production.

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