What is a target ring?

A target ring is a clustered ring design where a central gemstone is encircled by concentric rings of contrasting smaller stones. This creates a distinct bullseye pattern that was a hallmark of 1920s and 1930s design. Most examples combine diamonds with sapphires, rubies, or emeralds mounted in platinum settings. The geometric arrangement gives the face of the ring a flat, prominent presence on the hand.

How do I date a target ring?

Dating relies on stylistic markers, cut of the stones, and metal choices. Pieces from the 1920s and 1930s typically feature platinum settings with old cut diamonds and calibrated coloured stones in strict geometric shapes. Earlier Edwardian versions often incorporate yellow gold alongside platinum with softer floral or daisy motifs and natural pearls. Mid-century examples from the 1940s and 1950s tend to use heavier platinum mountings with modern brilliant cut stones.

Are these rings suitable for daily wear?

These rings function well for daily wear provided the settings are secure and checked regularly by a professional jeweller. Platinum provides a durable base that withstands everyday use better than softer metals. Care should be taken with softer centre stones like pearls or emeralds, which require more gentle handling than diamonds or sapphires. Removing the ring during manual labour or heavy activity protects the intricate millegrain and gallery work.

What is the difference between an Edwardian and Art Deco target ring?

Edwardian rings lean towards softer, organic motifs like floral daisy patterns, often pairing yellow gold with platinum-topped shoulders. They emphasise delicate scrollwork and natural pearls alongside diamonds and sapphires. Art Deco rings embrace rigid symmetry, sharp geometric lines, and strong colour contrasts using calibrated rubies, emeralds, or sapphires. Platinum is utilised extensively on its own to create crisp, flat plaque surfaces and precise target borders.