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Platinum Ruby Diamond Jewellery
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Platinum Ruby Diamond Jewellery

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Platinum ruby diamond jewellery brings together vibrant red stones and bright white metal, offering lasting elegance for everyday wear.

£1,450
3+ MONTHS AGO
jewellery

Several rings feature hidden gallery work beneath the stones, ensuring the wearer enjoys intricate detail facing entirely inward.

£1,895
3+ MONTHS AGO
jewellery
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Sellingantiques  ·  Guide 2153452026/2027 edition

Platinum Ruby Diamond Jewellery

Platinum ruby diamond jewellery brings together vibrant red stones and bright white metal, offering lasting elegance for everyday wear.

Introduction

Platinum Ruby Diamond Jewellery

Platinum ruby diamond jewellery comprises rings, brooches, bracelets, pendants and necklaces spanning the Victorian, Edwardian, Art Deco, Retro and Mid-Century periods. Buyers searching for platinum ruby diamond jewellery encounter pieces that highlight deep red rubies paired with diamonds set in durable white metal.

The most common form on this page is the ring, particularly the cluster, three-stone and target configurations originating from the Art Deco era. Alongside rings, pendants and bar brooches appear frequently, often combining platinum settings with yellow gold components.

Origins range from early twentieth-century workshops to mid-century studios, incorporating named regional stones such as Burmese Mogok rubies. Each item reflects the design priorities of its specific decade, shifting from intricate Edwardian floral motifs to geometric Art Deco lines.

How they were made

Materials and construction methods

Platinum serves as the primary metal for securing stones, valued for its strength and ability to hold fine millegrain edges without bulk. Goldsmiths frequently combined platinum with 18ct yellow gold or white gold, particularly in multi-tone designs from the Art Deco period.

Gemstones include natural rubies alongside old cut, rose cut and brilliant cut diamonds. Master lapidaries shaped rubies into oval, emerald and checkerboard cuts, mounting them alongside diamonds that catch natural light through hand-cut facets.

From the Sellingantiques archive

Materials recorded across the inventory include platinum, white gold, yellow gold, 18ct gold, rubies, sapphires and diamonds.

What sets them apart

Assessing quality in construction and stones

Quality rests upon the saturation and origin of the ruby, alongside the cut and clarity of the accompanying diamonds. Natural Burmese stones and untreated specimens command attention for their depth of colour.

Execution of the metalwork defines superior pieces, visible in crisp geometric pierced galleries and precise bead setting. Heavier platinum mountings with intact millegrain decoration indicate skilled workmanship from period ateliers.

Terms antiques dealers use

The Platinum Ruby Diamond Jewellery Glossary

Millegrain
A decorative technique involving a row of tiny raised metal beads along the edge of a setting. This method adds subtle texture and frames the gemstones.
Old cut diamond
A diamond cut by hand before modern machinery standardised proportions. These stones possess smaller tables and higher crowns, creating a soft candlelit sparkle.
Target ring
A ring style featuring a central gemstone surrounded by concentric rings of contrasting stones. This geometric layout defined much of the Art Deco aesthetic.
Mogok ruby
A ruby originating from the Mogok valley in Burma, historically prized for a vivid red hue. These stones frequently appear in high-grade twentieth-century pieces.
Three stone ring
A ring design set with three principal gems representing past, present and future. In this selection, they pair central rubies with flanking diamonds.
Questions people ask

Platinum Ruby Diamond Jewellery: Frequently Asked Questions

How do I care for platinum ruby diamond jewellery?

Clean these pieces gently using warm soapy water and a soft brush to remove everyday oils from the settings. Avoid harsh ultrasonic cleaners if the piece incorporates natural gems with historical treatments.

Store items separately in lined boxes to prevent the harder diamond facets from scratching softer rubies or wearing down delicate platinum prongs.

What periods do these pieces date from?

The selection spans from the late Victorian and Edwardian eras through the Art Deco and Retro periods into the mid-century. Art Deco pieces from the 1920s and 1930s make up a significant portion of the available items.

Earlier Victorian and Edwardian examples often feature softer yellow gold elements combined with platinum-topped mounts, whereas mid-century designs favour streamlined geometric clusters.

How can I tell an old cut diamond from a modern one?

Old cut diamonds exhibit smaller tables, steeper crown angles and open culets visible through the back of the stone. These geometric traits result from hand-polishing techniques common before the twentieth century.

Such stones produce a distinct, gentle scintillation under low light rather than the sharp brilliance characteristic of modern brilliant-cut diamonds.

Are all rubies in these pieces natural?

Many listings specify natural unheated rubies, particularly those originating from Burmese sources like Mogok. Gemmological reports often accompany these stones to confirm their origin and treatment status.

Buyers should examine individual listings for specific laboratory certifications detailing whether a ruby has undergone thermal enhancement.

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