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Antique Yellow Gold

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Antique yellow gold brings together rich metal warmth and enduring forms across rings, brooches and chains from Victorian, Edwardian and mid-century eras.

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Sellingantiques  ·  Guide 2220732026/2027 edition

Antique Yellow Gold

Antique yellow gold brings together rich metal warmth and enduring forms across rings, brooches and chains from Victorian, Edwardian and mid-century eras.

Introduction

Antique Yellow Gold

When searching for antique yellow gold, buyers encounter a diverse selection of jewellery and decorative items spanning the nineteenth and twentieth centuries. The category encompasses rings, brooches, necklaces, earrings, pendants, and bangles shaped in various purities of gold.

Victorian and Edwardian examples feature heavily alongside pieces from the Art Nouveau and Art Deco periods, showcasing periods of distinct design evolution. Formats range from multi-gemstone cluster rings and diamond engagement pieces to intricate drop earrings and articulated link bracelets.

Makers such as Cartier and Deakin & Francis occasionally appear, adding provenance to specific brooches and accessories within the broader assortment of precious metal items.

In brief

How they were made

The construction of these items relies on traditional goldsmithing techniques applied to 9ct, 15ct, 18ct, and higher purities of yellow gold, frequently paired with platinum settings for gemstones. Artisans employed openwork casting, hand engraving, and delicate filigree to structure mounting frameworks.

Precious stones including diamonds, sapphires, rubies, amethysts, and pearls are secured using claw, bezel, or gypsy settings tailored to the era's aesthetic demands. Enamel detailing and rolled gold methods also emerge in specific watch chains and decorative boxes.

From the Sellingantiques archive

Several pieces feature miniature avian forms, including charming gold bird brooches adorned with tiny natural pearls and emeralds.

What sets them apart

What varies in quality

Quality across this selection depends upon the integrity of the metalwork, the precision of gemstone cutting, and the overall balance of the design. Finer examples display crisp hand-carved details, secure stone settings, and harmonious proportions that reflect the skill of the original artisan.

The depth of the gold colour, the clarity and carat weight of incorporated diamonds or sapphires, and the preservation of original components further distinguish superior pieces from standard workshop productions.

Notable makers of yellow gold

Deakin & Francis·Cartier·Louis-François Tronquoy

Terms antiques dealers use

The Antique Yellow Gold Glossary

Carat
A unit measuring the purity of gold, where 24 carats represents pure gold. Lower carats like 9ct or 18ct indicate alloy mixtures that enhance durability.
Old Cut
A historic diamond cutting style characterised by a smaller table, higher crown, and open culet, designed to capture candlelight.
Collet
The metal collar or rim that surrounds a gemstone, securing it directly into the mounting of a ring or pendant.
T-bar
A transverse metal bar attached to the centre of a watch chain, historically used to secure a pocket watch within a waistcoat buttonhole.
Fob
A short strap, ribbon, or chain attached to a pocket watch, often featuring an ornamental seal or hardstone swivel.
Questions people ask

Antique Yellow Gold: Frequently Asked Questions

How do I care for antique gold jewellery?

Clean these pieces gently using warm soapy water and a soft brush, avoiding harsh chemical dips that damage softer gemstones like pearls or opals.

Store items individually in fabric-lined boxes to prevent scratching between harder diamonds and softer gold surfaces.

What is the difference between 9ct and 18ct yellow gold?

The primary difference lies in the proportion of pure gold alloyed with other metals like silver and copper, affecting both durability and hue.

Eighteen-carat gold contains a higher percentage of pure gold, resulting in a richer, deeper colour compared to the paler tone of 9ct alternatives.

How do I identify the period of a piece?

Stylistic markers such as Edwardian openwork floral motifs, Victorian multi-gemstone clusters, and Art Deco geometric lines offer the clearest initial guide to dating.

Assay office hallmarks, maker marks, and specific fastener types provide further concrete evidence regarding the exact year of manufacture.

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