Antique Turquoise Chain
An antique turquoise chain brings together vibrant blue stones and rich gold or silver links from the Victorian and Edwardian eras.
Antique Turquoise Chain
An antique turquoise chain is a piece of historical jewellery featuring turquoise stones set alongside precious metals like 9ct gold, 15ct yellow gold, and silver. Buyers seeking an antique turquoise chain often encounter longuard chains, curb link bracelets, and pendant necklaces originating from the nineteenth and early twentieth centuries.
The selections available span periods from early Victorian to the 1920s, incorporating styles such as Ottoman Revival and Arts and Crafts. Most pieces combine turquoise with pearls or seed pearls in designs featuring lovers knots, stars, and curb links.
Longuard chains and guard chains represent a significant portion of the available forms, often measuring substantial lengths of over thirty or fifty inches. These longer pieces frequently include dog clips or clasps designed to secure pendants or pocket watches.
How these chains were made
Maker techniques rely on shaping gold and silver into detailed links, including trombone and curb patterns, paired with hand-set turquoise stones. Artisans frequently combined 9ct rose gold, 15ct yellow gold, and rolled gold to create secure settings for both turquoise and pearls.
Many items incorporate delicate seed pearls threaded alongside turquoise cabochons, utilising fine wirework and claw settings. Silver and gold sections are soldered together carefully, sometimes integrating safety chains or box clasps for daily wear.
Some Victorian chains feature tiny lovers knots meant to keep wandering thoughts tied down to home.
What varies in quality
Quality differences stem from the purity of the gold, ranging from 9ct and 14K up to 15ct and 18kt gold, alongside the uniformity and colour stability of the turquoise stones. Pieces featuring higher gold carat weights and natural pearls demonstrate superior craftsmanship.
The intricacy of the link work, such as trombone links or detailed lovers knots, defines the standard of manufacture. Well-preserved original clasps, dog clips, and matching safety chains indicate higher original workshop standards.
The Gaskins
The Antique Turquoise Chain Glossary
- Longuard chain
- A very long Victorian or Edwardian necklace designed to be worn doubled or tripled around the neck. These pieces often feature a swivel clasp or dog clip at the end.
- Curb link
- A type of jewellery chain formed by interlaced uniform links that lie flat against the skin. This pattern provides strength and flexibility for bracelets and necklaces.
- Seed pearl
- A very small, naturally formed pearl often used in Victorian jewellery to accent larger stones. They appear frequently in floral and star clusters alongside turquoise.
- Dog clip
- A spring-loaded fastener commonly found on antique watch chains and longuards. It allows the wearer to attach pendants, charms, or pocket watches securely.
- Cabochon
- A gemstone shaped and polished with a smooth, rounded surface rather than faceted. Turquoise is almost universally cut in this manner to showcase its colour.
Antique Turquoise Chain: Frequently Asked Questions
How do I wear a longuard chain?
A longuard chain can be doubled around your neck for a layered look or worn at its full length of over fifty inches. Many people attach a pendant or watch to the dog clip at the end.
Ensure the clasp is secure before wearing these long pieces out, as their weight can pull on older fastenings during movement.
How do I clean turquoise jewellery?
Turquoise is a porous stone that absorbs oils and liquids easily, so it requires gentle care without harsh chemical dips or ultrasonic cleaners. Use a soft, dry cloth to wipe the stones and metal after wearing.
Keep your turquoise pieces away from perfumes, soaps, and water to prevent the blue colour from darkening or turning green over time.
What is a Suffragette chain?
A Suffragette chain typically incorporates the colours green, white, and violet to represent the movement for women's voting rights in the early twentieth century. In antique jewellery, this often translates to a combination of peridot, pearls, and amethyst or turquoise.
These pieces reflect specific historical events and political associations tied to the Edwardian period.
Are antique chains fragile?
Antique gold and silver chains are generally sturdy, but Edwardian and Victorian pieces require mindful handling due to their age. Fine seed pearls and turquoise settings benefit from careful storage away from heavier items.
Check the jump rings and dog clips periodically to ensure the connections remain strong and secure.