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18k Yellow Gold
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18k Yellow Gold

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18k yellow gold adorns a rich array of antique pendants, rings, and medallions spanning the Victorian and Art Deco eras.

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Sellingantiques  ·  Guide 272772026/2027 edition

18k Yellow Gold

18k yellow gold adorns a rich array of antique pendants, rings, and medallions spanning the Victorian and Art Deco eras.

Introduction

18k Yellow Gold

Items fashioned from 18k yellow gold span a diverse selection of wearable pieces, with French devotional medals and charm pendants forming a significant portion of the selection. Buyers frequently encounter intricate religious medallions, sentimental love tokens, and zodiac charms originating from the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries. Rings, pocket watches, and cufflinks also appear across Victorian, Edwardian, and Art Deco periods.

How they were made

Materials and Technique

Goldsmiths utilised high-purity 18ct and 18K yellow gold as the primary structural and decorative medium, occasionally combining it with rose gold or white gold accents. This metal provides a warm, enduring foundation capable of holding fine details without losing structural integrity over decades of wear.

Artisans applied specialised techniques such as plique-à-jour enamel, which creates translucent windows of colour resembling stained glass, alongside hand-engraving and twisted wire framing. Accompanying elements incorporate natural pearls, mother of pearl, diamonds, and rubies set directly into the gold framework.

From the Sellingantiques archive

Listings feature items from the Victorian, Edwardian, Art Nouveau, and Art Deco eras, constructed in yellow, rose, and white gold.

What sets them apart

Craftsmanship and Detail

The distinction between standard items and exceptional pieces rests upon the crispness of the artisan's hand-engraving and the precision of sculptural reliefs on medals and charms. Master medallists imparted subtle depth and expression to figures of the Virgin Mary and zodiac symbols that lesser strikes simply omit.

Quality also manifests in the complexity of supporting materials, such as the translucent brilliance of undamaged plique-à-jour enamel or the matched symmetry of handset gemstones. Well-preserved maker marks and assay stamps provide verifiable proof of origin that elevates the standing of an individual piece.

Notable makers of 18k yellow gold

Lange and Sohne·Emile Monier·Paul Brandt·Perroud·Mazzoni·Guilbert·Vernon·Emile Dropsy·Sellier·Rasumny·A Golay Leresche Geneve·Raphael·Augis·Lasserre·Bouix·Becker·Tricard

Terms antiques dealers use

The 18k Yellow Gold Glossary

Plique-à-jour
An enamelling technique where pigment is fired without a backing, creating translucent cells that let light pass through the design. This delicate method resembles miniature stained glass.
Medal
A flat or relief-cast metal piece, often religious or commemorative, designed to be worn as a pendant. These typically feature detailed iconography on both obverse and reverse sides.
Albert chain
A short length of chain historically attached to a pocket watch and secured to a waistcoat buttonhole. Antique examples frequently incorporate decorative links and love knots.
Half hunter
A pocket watch featuring a case with a glass or open centre panel on the cover, allowing the user to view the hands without opening the watch completely.
Fob
A small ornament or seal attached to a pocket chain. These often include swivel mechanisms and hardstone intaglios for stamping wax.
Questions people ask

18k Yellow Gold: Frequently Asked Questions

What is 18k yellow gold?

This metal designation indicates an alloy containing seventy-five percent pure gold combined with twenty-five percent other metals, typically silver and copper, to achieve durability and a rich colour.

This specific proportion balances malleability for intricate goldsmithing with the resilience required for daily jewellery wear.

How do I date these pieces?

Dating relies upon stylistic markers such as the flowing organic lines of Art Nouveau or the geometric symmetry of Art Deco, alongside maker marks and assay stamps.

Comparing the specific iconography and manufacturing techniques against known historical periods helps narrow the production window.

Were religious medals worn daily?

Historical evidence and suspension rings indicate that religious medals and charm pendants were constant personal companions, worn close to the heart on chains.

Many show subtle softening of their raised relief details from decades of friction against clothing and skin.

How should I care for enamel?

Enamel and plique-à-jour components require protection from sharp impacts and sudden thermal shocks to prevent cracking or loss of the vitreous material.

Cleaning should involve only a soft cloth and warm water, avoiding harsh chemical dips or ultrasonic cleaners that can damage pearls and softer gems.

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