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18ct Gold Gemstone Jewellery

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This selection of 18ct gold gemstone jewellery brings together rings, brooches and pendants shaped by Victorian, Edwardian and mid-century hands.

Design forms span from Victorian boat and cluster rings to Edwardian lavallière necklaces and mid-century spray brooches.

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Sellingantiques  ·  Guide 2320722026/2027 edition

18ct Gold Gemstone Jewellery

This selection of 18ct gold gemstone jewellery brings together rings, brooches and pendants shaped by Victorian, Edwardian and mid-century hands.

Introduction

18ct Gold Gemstone Jewellery

When searching for 18ct gold gemstone jewellery, buyers encounter a wide array of personal adornments spanning from the late Victorian era through to the mid-century period. Rings form the largest group, featuring cluster, boat and trilogy designs set with stones like sapphire, ruby, diamond and opal. Pendants, brooches and earrings complete the selections, often showcasing the characteristic motifs of the Edwardian and Art Deco years.

The materials recorded in these listings show a heavy reliance on 18ct yellow and white gold, occasionally partnered with platinum. Gemstones appear in combinations both vibrant and restrained, from peridot and amethyst to aquamarine and zircon alongside traditional diamonds. Pieces from the 1900s and 1910s frequently display delicate floral or navette shapes, whilst later mid-century examples lean towards bolder abstract sprays and clean geometric clusters.

How they were made

Materials and construction

The foundation of these pieces rests on 18ct gold, utilised in yellow, white and rose variations to complement the colour of the chosen gems. Goldsmiths employed techniques such as bezel settings, claw mounts and delicate millegrain edges to secure diamonds, rubies and opals safely within the metal framework.

Stones are typically shaped as old cut diamonds, oval cut sapphires, or navette and princess cuts depending on the prevailing style of the decade. Structural support was often reinforced with platinum in the late Victorian and Edwardian periods, allowing for finer wirework and lighter settings without sacrificing durability.

The market

18ct Gold Gemstone Jewellery Retail Price Guide 2026

Entry-levelUnder £800
Typical prices£800 – £2,700
Premium examplesOver £2,700

Typical asking prices for 18ct gold gemstone jewellery among the pieces listed under this phrase on Sellingantiques today, from the lower quarter to the upper quarter. They describe what is for sale here now, not the wider market.

From the Sellingantiques archive

Listings feature 18ct gold combined with gemstones including aquamarine, peridot, emerald, sapphire, ruby, diamond and opal across multiple decades.

What sets them apart

Distinctions in standard

The standard of execution varies largely through the precision of the stone setting and the crispness of the surrounding metalwork. Superior pieces exhibit well-matched gemstone saturation and securely fitted mountings that hold each stone level without excess metal pooling around the claws.

Artistry in the design execution also separates standard production from finer work, particularly where hand-cut stones align perfectly with the geometry of navette or cluster frames. The integrity of the 18ct gold shank or brooch pin, showing minimal wear relative to its age, marks a higher level of historical preservation.

Terms antiques dealers use

The 18ct Gold Gemstone Jewellery Glossary

Navette
A boat-shaped gemstone setting that tapers to points at both ends. This silhouette was especially popular during the Edwardian period for diamond and opal clusters.
Old cut
A diamond facet style pre-dating modern brilliant cuts, characterised by a smaller table, higher crown and open culet. These stones catch candlelight warmly.
Millegrain
A decorative technique featuring a line of tiny raised beads of metal along the edge of a setting. It provides a soft textural border typical of Edwardian jewellery.
Trilogy ring
A ring featuring three principal gemstones arranged in a row, often interpreted symbolically as representing the past, present and future.
Gypsy ring
A style where stones are flush-set directly into the heavy gold band rather than held in raised claws. This form offers a smooth, rounded profile.
Questions people ask

18ct Gold Gemstone Jewellery: Frequently Asked Questions

How do I care for antique opal jewellery?

Opals contain natural water content and require gentle handling to prevent drying out or cracking. Avoid exposing them to harsh chemicals, ultrasonic cleaners or sudden extreme temperature changes.

Store them in a soft pouch away from harder gemstones that might scratch the surface. Regular gentle wiping with a soft damp cloth helps maintain their characteristic play of colour.

Can 18ct gold jewellery be resized?

Most 18ct gold rings can be altered by a skilled jeweller who can add or remove metal from the shank. The presence of delicate side stones or continuous shoulder engraving requires careful assessment before any work begins.

Pendants, brooches and earrings do not generally undergo resizing, though pin mechanisms and bails can be repaired or reinforced if needed.

What does old cut diamond mean?

An old cut diamond refers to stones shaped by hand before modern machinery standardised brilliant cutting in the early twentieth century. They typically feature fewer, broader facets designed to perform well under gaslight or candlelight.

This historical cutting style gives each stone a distinct, individual character with a softer, deeper glow compared to modern brilliant cuts.

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