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Antique Sapphire and Diamond

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Antique sapphire and diamond jewellery combines deep blue corundum with brilliant gemstones across Victorian, Edwardian, and Art Deco designs.

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Sellingantiques  ·  Guide 2217732026/2027 edition

Antique Sapphire and Diamond

Antique sapphire and diamond jewellery combines deep blue corundum with brilliant gemstones across Victorian, Edwardian, and Art Deco designs.

Introduction

Antique Sapphire and Diamond

When searching for antique sapphire and diamond items, buyers encounter a diverse selection of rings, brooches, earrings, and pendants spanning the Victorian era through the mid-twentieth century.

The cluster ring emerges as the most frequent form on this page, pairing a central blue stone with surrounding brilliant-cut diamonds in platinum or gold settings.

Pieces range from delicate late nineteenth-century boat and daisy configurations to geometric Art Deco creations and substantial mid-century cocktail pieces.

How they were made

Materials and Construction Methods

Goldsmiths utilised platinum predominantly during the Art Deco period to construct secure, delicate settings that maximised light entry into the diamonds.

Yellow gold and white gold form the structural base for earlier Victorian and Edwardian iterations, incorporating bezel, prong, and cluster mountings.

Gemstones feature old-cut diamonds alongside cushion, oval, and pear-cut sapphires originating from sources such as Ceylon, Burma, and Kashmir.

From the Sellingantiques archive

Listings incorporate items spanning the Victorian, Edwardian, Art Deco, and mid-century periods, utilising platinum alongside yellow and white gold.

What sets them apart

Distinctions in Quality

Quality rests upon the natural origin, saturation, and clarity of the sapphire, alongside the cut and brilliance of the accompanying diamonds.

Mastery of metalwork defines superior pieces, visible in the precision of platinum millgraining and the structural integrity of antique claw settings.

Terms antiques dealers use

The Antique Sapphire and Diamond Glossary

Cluster ring
A ring featuring a central gemstone encircled by a ring of smaller stones, typically diamonds surrounding a sapphire.
Old-cut diamond
A hand-cut diamond shape from the antique and vintage periods characterised by a small table, high crown, and large culet.
Millgraining
A decorative border technique consisting of a raised row of small metal beads along the edge of a setting.
Boat ring
A navette-shaped ring setting curving horizontally across the finger, common in Georgian and Victorian jewellery.
Questions people ask

Antique Sapphire and Diamond: Frequently Asked Questions

How do I care for antique sapphire and diamond jewellery?

Clean these pieces gently using warm water, mild soap, and a soft brush to remove everyday debris from beneath the settings.

Store items individually in soft pouches to prevent the harder diamonds from scratching neighbouring jewellery or the sapphire surface.

What is the difference between old-cut and modern diamonds?

Old-cut diamonds were shaped by hand before modern machinery standardised proportions, resulting in broader facets that catch candlelight in a distinct manner.

Modern brilliant-cut stones prioritise maximum light return through strict geometric symmetry, altering the visual texture of the piece.

Are all sapphires in these pieces heat treated?

Many sapphires undergo traditional heating enhancement to improve colour and clarity, a standard practice across historical periods.

Unheated stones occur less frequently and possess natural geological characteristics documented by independent gemmological laboratories.

How can I identify an Art Deco sapphire ring?

Art Deco pieces display strong geometric lines, symmetrical patterns, and extensive use of platinum alongside calibré-cut stones.

These designs reject organic Victorian motifs in favour of industrial abstraction and stark colour contrasts between blue corundum and white metal.

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