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ID #SA1190446
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£950
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Named Victorian Officer’s Bicorn Cocked Hat by Hawkes & Co., London mid–late 19th Century
Peter Harris Clocks & Militaria
for sale €1,112     $1,207
£950
Peter Harris Clocks & Militaria

Peter Harris Clocks & Militaria

Sellingantiques Verified Since Nov 2020
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Id #SA1190446
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Named Victorian Officer’s Bicorn Cocked Hat by Hawkes & Co., London mid–late 19th Century

19th century
Description

A fine and original Victorian named officer’s bicorn cocked hat, with the officers surname "Mayne" on a Tailor's paper label inside.

It is constructed in black sealskin and of high-quality private purchase form. The front is decorated with oak-leaf patterned gilt braid bands, centred by a silk rosette overlaid with a double row of gilt twisted braid, terminating in a gilt wire button. Both points of the hat retain their original gilt wire tassels, confirming formal levee or court usage rather than field wear.

The interior is lined in maroon silk and bears the gilt retailer’s stamp “Hawkes & Co”, the celebrated London military tailors and outfitters who supplied officers of the British Army throughout the 19th century, particularly those in senior, staff, Guards, and ceremonial appointments. The hat retains its original tan leather sweatband and an original period paper tailor’s label inscribed “Mayne 25736”, identifying the officer client and Hawkes’ internal order or ledger reference.

The bicorn is accompanied by its original japanned tin transit box, a rare and highly desirable survival, confirming careful storage and adding significantly to the historical and collector appeal of the piece.

Condition:

Very good original condition throughout. The sealskin body remains sound with good colour and surface. Gilt braid, wirework and tassels are intact with only light age-related wear. Interior lining and sweatband well preserved. The japanned tin shows expected surface wear consistent with age.

Notes:

Bicorn hats of this quality and construction were typically worn by senior or staff officers for ceremonial, levee and court occasions during the mid to late Victorian period. The named tailor’s label adds personal provenance and enhances collectability.

Declaration

Peter Harris Clocks & Militaria has dated this Victorian Officers Bicorn Hat to the 19th Century.

Reference Numbers
Sellingantiques Reference
SA1190446
Dealers Notes

Peter Harris Clocks & Militaria, Portobello Road

WE are open every Saturday between 9.30 - 3.30pm in Chelsea Galleries 67 Portobello Road London.

We are at the front of the gallery, on the 1st aisle.

Web page:-

https://peterharrisclocks.com/welcome/

Description
A fine and original Victorian named officer’s bicorn cocked hat, with the officers surname "Mayne" on a Tailor's paper label inside.

It is constructed in black sealskin and of high-quality private purchase form.

The front is decorated with oak-leaf patterned gilt braid bands, centred by a silk rosette overlaid with a double row of gilt twisted braid, terminating in a gilt wire button.
Peter Harris Clocks & Militaria

Both points of the hat retain their original gilt wire tassels, confirming formal levee or court usage rather than field wear.

fig 1. A Victorian black felt bicorn hat trimmed with gold bullion braid alongside its fitted patterned tin storage case.
fig 1. Named Victorian Officer’s Bicorn Cocked Hat by Hawkes & Co., London mid–late 19th Century

The interior is lined in maroon silk and bears the gilt retailer’s stamp “Hawkes & Co”, the celebrated London military tailors and outfitters who supplied officers of the British Army throughout the 19th century, particularly those in senior, staff, Guards, and ceremonial appointments. The hat retains its original tan leather sweatband and an original period paper tailor’s label inscribed “Mayne 25736”, identifying the officer client and Hawkes’ internal order or ledger reference.

fig 2. A Victorian black felt bicorn hat trimmed with gold bullion braid alongside its fitted patterned tin storage case.
fig 2. Named Victorian Officer’s Bicorn Cocked Hat by Hawkes & Co., London mid–late 19th Century

The bicorn is accompanied by its original japanned tin transit box, a rare and highly desirable survival, confirming careful storage and adding significantly to the historical and collector appeal of the piece.

Condition:

Very good original condition throughout. The sealskin body remains sound with good colour and surface. Gilt braid, wirework and tassels are intact with only light age-related wear. Interior lining and sweatband well preserved. The japanned tin shows expected surface wear consistent with age.

Notes:

Bicorn hats of this quality and construction were typically worn by senior or staff officers for ceremonial, levee and court occasions during the mid to late Victorian period. The named tailor’s label adds personal provenance and enhances collectability.

Date of Manufacture

Peter Harris Clocks & Militaria has dated this Victorian Officers Bicorn Hat to the 19th Century.

Reference Numbers
Sellingantiques Ref
SA1190446
Peter Harris Clocks & Militaria
Peter Harris Clocks & Militaria
Sellingantiques verified Since Nov 2020

We specialise in flintlock pistols, muskets, clocks & watches

Dealer Profile

You can view the stock and full dealer information on the Peter Harris Clocks & Militaria Profile Page

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A Victorian black felt bicorn hat trimmed with gold bullion braid alongside its fitted patterned tin storage case.
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Archive I A Victorian black felt bicorn hat trimmed with gold bullion braid alongside its fitted patterned tin storage case.

Named Victorian Officer’s Bicorn Cocked Hat by Hawkes & Co., London mid–late 19th Century

Archive II A Victorian black felt bicorn hat trimmed with gold bullion braid alongside its fitted patterned tin storage case. View II
Archive III A Victorian black felt bicorn hat trimmed with gold bullion braid alongside its fitted patterned tin storage case. View III
Enlarged Archival View
Telephone 07930 536818
Location
London
United Kingdom
Verified Since Nov 2020
Items For Sale 94
Items Sold 110
Peter Harris Clocks & Militaria
Peter Harris Clocks & Militaria
Verified Since Nov 2020
View Dealer Info
Location: London, United Kingdom
Verified
Nov 2020
For Sale
94
Sold
110
A Victorian black felt bicorn hat trimmed with gold bullion braid alongside its fitted patterned tin storage case.
Named Victorian Officer’s Bicorn Cocked Hat by Hawkes & Co., London Mid–Late 19th Century
Ref: SA1190446
A Victorian black felt bicorn hat trimmed with gold bullion braid alongside its fitted patterned tin storage case.
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Antiques are the ultimate green purchase. By choosing historical pieces over newly manufactured goods, you completely eliminate the carbon footprint of modern mass production while preserving exceptional, timeless craftsmanship.

A bicorn cocked hat is a two-pointed military headpiece evolved from the eighteenth-century tricorn. It was widely adopted by naval and army officers across Europe during the late eighteenth and nineteenth centuries as part of formal dress uniforms.

These hats were typically constructed from black beaver felt or silk plush, reinforced with buckram framing. Decorative elements included gold or silver bullion lace braiding, silk cockades, gilded brass buttons, and occasionally feather plumes.

Authentic examples feature hand-sewn metallic lace trimming, period maker labels inside the crown, and age-consistent oxidisation on the bullion wire. Original fitted tin storage cases, often bearing a maker plaque or owner initials, further confirm authenticity.

Display the hat on a custom wooden or acrylic stand alongside its original tin case within a glass cabinet, bookshelf, or desk display. The historical military aesthetic complements dark wood furniture, leather accents, and traditional study decor.

Keep the hat stored away from direct sunlight, high humidity, and extreme temperatures to prevent fabric degradation and tarnish. Brush gently with a soft-bristled brush to remove dust, and avoid touching metallic lace directly with bare hands to prevent tarnishing from skin oils.
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